Chapter 6 - Power Woodworking Machines

Chapter 6

Power

Woodworking

Machines

Section 6.1

Table Saw

Section 6.2

Band Saw

Section 6.3

Scroll Saw

Section 6.4

Radial Arm Saw

Section 6.5

Drill Press

Section 6.6

Jointer

Section 6.7

Planer/Surfacer

Section 6.8

Wood Lathe

Section 6.9

Shaper

Section 6.10

Sanders: Belt,

Disc, Spindle, and

Drum

If you could have only one power

woodworking machine in your

shop, which one would you select

and why?

Essential

Question

Introduction

In this chapter you will learn about a wide

variety of power machines for woodworking.

Power machines provide a faster and more accu-

rate way to cut, drill, shape, and sand wood into

a nished product. After studying this chapter,

you will be able to identify the machines and the

functions each one performs.

Certain factors must be kept in mind when-

ever operating a machine powered by an outside

source, such as electricity. One important factor

is that the machine’s cutting motion is not the

result of the force you exert. Any problem that

occurs while using the machine will therefore

continue until the machine’s power source is

removed. Review all general safety rules before

operating any type of power woodworking

machine. Safety rules for specic machines are

listed in each section of this chapter.

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The size of a table saw is determined by

the maximum diameter of saw blade that can

be safely used on the saw. The blade rotates at

high speed, and a guard is kept over the blade

to protect ngers and hands. The guard shown

Figure6-3 is just one example of the guards

available for table saws. This guard has a clear

plastic hood that covers the saw blade. The

guard is designed so it lifts very easily and al-

lows the workpiece to pass underneath while

still covering the saw blade. In addition, a guard

is valuable for deecting sawdust out of the line

of sight.

Most saws are equipped with an anti-

kickback device. The anti-kickback device is de-

signed to prevent kickback or to reduce the veloc-

ity (speed) of a piece of stock if a kickback does

occur. See

Figure6-4.

Every table saw should be equipped with a

splitter,

Figure 6-5. The splitter holds the saw

kerf open during ripping to reduce the kickback

hazard. Splitters are commonly part of the anti-

kickback device.

A movable fence can be used for accurate

ripping of stock, Figure 6-6. The fence slides

along guide bars attached to the front and back

of the table. Another piece of equipment used

with the table saw, the miter gauge,

Figure6-7, is

used toaid in crosscutting and mitering pieces

of stock. The fence and miter gauge should not

be used at the same time without attaching

a stop block to the fence or using a stop block

attachment.

Section 6.1

Table Saw

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using the table saw.

• Name the major types of blades used on the

table saw.

• Properly use all safety devices for the

tablesaw.

• Demonstrate crosscutting, ripping, and

mitering.

• Demonstrate cutting rabbets, grooves or

dadoes, and tenons.

Technical Terms

featherboard

fence

xture

hollow ground

insert plate

jig

miter gauge

outfeed stand

splitter

stop block

table saw

tenon

Delta International Machinery Corp.

Figure6-1. Table saws are used to make straight

cuts in stock.

Fence

guide bar

Safety

switch

Arbor tilt

wheel and scale

Raising and

lowering handwheel

Extension

table

Fence

Ta ble

Ta ble slot

Guard and

splitter

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, review the

objectives. Based on this information,

write down two or three items that

you think are important to note while

you are reading.

The table saw is often referred to as a circu-

lar saw or bench saw. As the name suggests, this

machine is mounted in a table,

Figure6-1. It has

a circular blade that can be raised, lowered, or

set at an angle. The table saw can make a wide

variety of cuts, including rip cuts and crosscuts,

miters, compound miters, bevels, grooves, da-

does, and rabbets. See

Figure6-2 for examples of

these cuts.

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128 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Rip

Bevel

Groove

Compound mit

Miter

Crosscut

Dado

Rabbet

Types of Cuts

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Figure6-2. The types of cuts that can be made with a table saw.

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Figure6-3. Use the guard on the table saw in

almost all operations. Check with your instructor

if you are not sure if the guard should be used.

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Figure6-4. Kickbacks during ripping operations

are common if you do not have the anti-kickback

device installed on the saw.

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Section 6.1 Table Saw 129

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Table Saw

The table saw is one of the most

productive machines in the woodshop

if used properly. However, it can be

one of the most dangerous machines if

improperly used. Keep yourself and the

work area safe. Always wear appropriate

personal protective equipment, inspect

the workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the table

saw. Make sure others will not be in

the machine’s safety zone while you

are operating it. Be sure to follow the

generalsafety rules, as well as the ones

listed here.

Before Turning on the Power

• Make sure the stock has been

properlyprepared. Warp must be

removed from the wood’s surface,

and at least one edge must be

surfaced.

• Make all adjustments before the

power is turned on.

• Install the correct blade for the type

of cutting to be done. For example,

donot use a rip blade to crosscut

wood. Make sure the blade is sharp

and the teeth have set (are bent to

alternate sides). The set of the teeth

provides clearance for the blade

whensawing.

• The blade should not be raised more

than 1/4″ above the stock.

• Properly position the fence, miter

gauge, outfeed stand, and other

accessories.

• Be sure that the blade, when tilted,

will clear the table, the fence, the

guard, the miter gauge, and other

special setups.

• Make sure the saw is equipped with a

proper guard and a splitter.

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Figure6-5. Use the splitter when ripping stock.

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Figure6-6. The fence of the table saw is mainly

used for ripping and special operations.

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Figure6-7. The miter gauge can be set to various

angles.

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130 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Finishing the Job

• When you are finished making your

cut, turn off the machine and let the

blade come to a complete stop. Use a

push stick to clear scraps away from

the blade.

• Never leave the saw unattended while

the blade is still moving.

• Be sure all adjustments are secure

and that the ripping fence or miter

gauge is fastened properly.

• Have the instructor check the setup.

• If a sawdust exhaust system is

available, turn it on.

While Cutting

• Stand slightly to the left of the saw

blade. This protects you from being

hit if a kickback occurs.

• Always keep your hands and fingers

4″–6″ away from the cutting path.

Usea push stick when ripping stock

that is less than 6″ wide,

Figure6-8.

• NEVER ATTEMPT TO CUT FREEHAND.

Depending on the operation, the

material being cut should be controlled

with the fence or miter gauge.

• When cutting large or long stock, have

a helper support the stock. The helper

should not push or pull the wood as it

is being cut.

• When crosscutting short duplicate

pieces, attach a stop block to the

fence. Otherwise, the cut piece of

stock can become lodged between the

fence and the blade, and it may get

thrown out with great force.

• Stop the saw to make all adjustments.

• Never reach over the saw when

making any cuts.

• To prevent your hands from slipping,

arch your fingers while feeding the

stock instead of laying your hands flat.

• Do not cut cylindrical stock unless a

special jig is used. A jig is a device

that holds the part to be machined,

and it also positions and holds the

cutting tool.

• Never attempt to resaw lumber

without first getting permission from

the instructor.

• Never attempt to lower stock over the

saw blade.

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Figure6-8. Use a push stick when ripping

narrow stock.

SawStop

Table Saws

A table saw blade is fast and powerful. It can

cut wood quickly, but it can also cut esh. Many

table saw operators have accidentally cut off

their ngers. SawStop

table saws are designed

to help prevent such accidents,

Figure6-9. These

saws have a unique electronic safety system that

detects when skin contacts the revolving saw

blade and stops the blade almost instantly.

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Section 6.1 Table Saw 131

blade cuts like a series of chisels. It is used for

cutting along the grain of the wood. The com-

bination blade has both crosscut and rip teeth.

It is used for all-purpose work. Some combina-

tion blades are hollow ground, making the blade

thicker near the teeth. This provides for clear-

ance of the blade in the saw kerf and eliminates

the need for setting the teeth. A standard combi-

nation blade makes a smooth, accurate cut when

crosscutting and mitering. However, when rip-

ping stock it tends to overheat because of insuf-

cient blade clearance.

Figure 6-10 shows sev-

eral types of circular saw blades. There are many

special blades for cutting plastic laminates, ply-

wood, tempered hardboard, and similar materi-

als. Always use the proper type of blade for the

work to be performed.

Carbide-tipped blades are available for most

cutting purposes and offer many advantages.

They cut cleaner and faster than standard blades.

They require less edge preparation of the stock

before gluing, and they cause less strain on saw

motors. Some blade makers claim that a carbide-

tipped blade will outlast 200 or more standard

blades. Two signicant drawbacks to carbide-

tipped blades are their high cost and that they

must be sharpened using special equipment.

Changing the Blade

Before changing the blade, disconnect the

power to the saw and remove the insert plate,

the plate around the saw blade (frequently called

The system works by inducing an electrical

signal in the saw blade. The system monitors

that signal for any changes. Human contact with

the blade causes the signal to drop. When this

happens, the fast-acting brake stops the blade. A

heavy-duty spring pushes a block of aluminum,

called a brake pawl, against the blade’s teeth in

3–5 milliseconds, or about 1/200 of a second. The

operator may suffer a minor cut, but serious in-

jury is avoided. When the blade is stopped, it is

also retracted below the table and power to the

saw is shut off.

Why will wood not cause the system to stop

the blade? Unlike human beings, wood has a

very low ability to store and conduct electricity.

Wood contacting the blade will not cause a drop

in the electrical signal, and therefore the system

will not activate and stop the blade. These saws

have been placed in many woodworking facili-

ties and school shops, where they have prevent-

ed major injuries to ngers and hands.

Table Saw Blades

Crosscut, rip, and combination blades are

commonly used with the table saw. The crosscut

blade has teeth similar to those on a hand cross-

cut saw. They look and cut like a series of knives.

The crosscut blade is usually used for cutting

across the grain of the wood. The rip blade has

teeth similar to those on a hand ripsaw. The rip

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Figure6-9. Electronic technology is being used

in a new line of table saws designed to help

reduce the risk of injury to hands and ﬁngers.

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Figure6-10. Check table saw blades on a regular

basis and replace when they are dull.

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132 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Crosscutting

Crosscutting means cutting across the grain or

width of the board. Crosscutting is usually done

with the miter gauge only,

Figure6-12. Make sure

your piece of stock has one true (planed smooth)

edge. Lay out your cutting line on the stock, placing

your square along the true edge. Raise the blade so

that it projects above the stock 1/8″–1/4″. Move the

fence out of the way since it will not be needed for

this operation. Lay the board on the table with the

true edge against the miter gauge. Align the cut-

ting mark with the saw blade and place the guard

in the proper position. Pull the miter gauge and

stock away from the blade carefully so that you do

not move the stock from side to side. Stand slightly

to one side of the blade and turn on the machine.

Hold the stock rmly against the miter gauge as

the gauge is pushed slowly along the miter groove.

Feed the stock slowly into the saw. Push the board

past the saw blade and turn off the saw.

In some cases, you may need to crosscut

several pieces of stock to equal lengths. In these

cases, you will need to clamp a clearance block

called a stop block to the fence or use a stop block

attachment. The stop block should be attached

well in front of the blade so that the stock being

a throat plate). Place a wrench on the arbor nut

with one hand. Wedge a board under the saw

blade with the other hand to prevent the blade

from turning,

Figure6-11. Many saws provide a

second wrench and nut for holding the arbor in

place. Turn the nut on the arbor clockwise for re-

moval; most saw arbors have left-hand threads.

After loosening the nut, place your index nger

on the end of the arbor and unthread the nut onto

your nger. This prevents it from dropping into

the sawdust below. Remove the nut. Place your

index nger on the end of the arbor again and

slide the washer onto your nger. Remove the

blade, being careful that you do not cut yourself

on the teeth or chip the teeth by hitting thetable.

Place the new blade on the arbor. Make sure

the teeth of the blade will point toward the stock

and operator when in operation. Put the wash-

er on your nger and slip it onto the end of the

arbor. Do the same for the nut. Tighten the nut

using the wrench.

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Figure6-11. When removing a blade, use a

board to prevent the blade from turning as you

loosen the arbor nut.

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Figure6-12. When crosscutting on the table

saw, make sure that you use the miter gauge for

accurate cutting.

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Section 6.1 Table Saw 133

will be holding the miter gauge against the front

edge of the workpiece. The other hand is used to

push against the opposite edge. Be extremely care-

ful when attempting this procedure.

Ripping

Softwood lumber is available in standard

widths and lengths. Hardwood lumber is sold in

random widths and lengths. In many cases, the

width dimensions you need for your product are

not the width dimensions of the stock. In these

cases, you must rip the stock to the correct width.

Make sure when you are ripping stock that the

edge resting against the fence has been planed or

smoothed. The power jointer is the best machine

for getting the edges planed smooth and straight.

Remove the miter gauge from the saw and

place it out of the way of the ripping operation.

Raise the blade so it is 1/8″–1/4″ above the stock, as

in crosscutting. Set the fence using the scale on the

front guide bar. Before cutting, use a bench rule or

tape measure to verify the ripping width. This is

done by measuring from the tooth set to the fence.

Adjust the distance as necessary. Be sure to use the

splitter for ripping operations. The splitter acts as a

metal wedge in the saw kerf and separates the two

pieces being cut to help prevent binding.

Place the guard in position, making sure the

splitter and anti-kickback ngers are properly

positioned. Lay the stock at on the table with

the true edge next to the fence. If you need a

push stick, make sure it is at hand before turning

on the saw. Remember, a push stick is required

for pieces less than 6″ wide,

Figure6-15.

cut does not get pinched between the block and

the blade,

Figure 6-13. When guring out the

length of the pieces, measure from the edge of

the blade to the stop block, not to the fence itself.

Sometimes the workpiece you are cutting is

too wide and the miter gauge will not slide into

the table saw slot when starting the cut. If this

is the case, you can use the miter gauge back-

ward. See Figure6-14. This means that one hand

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Figure6-13. Use the stop block and fence

combination only when several duplicate pieces

have to be cut.

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Figure6-14. Using the miter gauge in the

backward position is done mainly when cutting

wide pieces of plywood.

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Figure6-15. Push sticks can be made from wood

that you have in the shop

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134 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

as it leaves the saw table. If you don’t have one

of these devices, always have a helper support a

long workpiece while it is being cut.

A featherboard is a device that is typically

made in the woodshop. It is simply a piece of

stock with a series of kerfs cut along the grain

(not across the grain). When clamped to the ta-

ble of the saw and properly positioned against

the stock being cut, the featherboard guides the

stock into the blade by pushing the stock rmly

against the fence. See

Figure6-19.

Turn on the saw and push the board slowly

into the blade. Apply forward pressure only on

the piece between the blade and the fence. Con-

tinue pushing the board until its entire length

has been cut, and then turn off the saw. Wait

until the blade stops rotating before removing

pieces of wood from around the blade.

Ripping Accessories

Accessories allow you to do your work more

safely and accurately. However, all of these de-

vices are useless unless they are installed and

adjusted prior to the ripping operation. Always

think the process through before starting the saw.

Some fences are equipped with a device

that may be used instead of a push stick. This

“ nger-saving” device holds down the stock

while pushing it past the blade, Figure6-16. This

device is normally mounted to the fence so that

it is available when needed.

Another xture that may be used when rip-

ping simply holds the stock rmly against the

table. (A xture is any device that positions and

holds a part but does not actually guide the cut-

ting tool.) This xture is installed on the fence

and allows the operator to guide the stock us-

ing both hands. In addition, the xture prevents

kickback if the blade binds.

Figure 6-17 shows

this xture in use.

An accessory that is helpful when ripping

long stock is the outfeed stand, also called a

steady-rest or dead-man,

Figure6-18. The height is

easily adjusted to provide support for the stock

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Figure6-16. The ﬁnger-saving device holds the

wood down while allowing you to cut it.

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Figure6-17. This ripping ﬁxture holds the stock

against the table and also prevents kickback if

the blade binds.

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Figure6-18. An outfeed stand supports long

pieces of stock. Make sure these devices are

properly placed and weighted to prevent them

from tipping during a ripping operation.

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Section 6.1 Table Saw 135

through the stock. Before starting the saw, make

sure that the blade will not come into contact with

the guard or fence.

Mitering

Miters are angled cuts made across pieces of

stock. The procedure is similar to crosscutting

stock,

Figure 6-21. Miters are commonly cut at

45°. When two mitered pieces are joined, they

form a 90° angle for products like picture frames.

One can also use a shop-made sliding mi-

ter sled,

Figure6-22. This handy sled already

has permanent guides set at 45°. It is much

quicker to use this type of sled when cutting

miter joints.

Check to make sure the miter gauge is set to

the proper angle for the cut. Some miter gauges

have hold-down xtures to prevent the stock

from moving. Proceed with the cut as you would

when crosscutting stock.

Beveling

A bevel is an angled cut along an edge of a

board. To cut a bevel on the table saw, the blade

must be tilted. Turn the saw tilt handwheel to the

correct angle. Always check the saw blade angle

with a sliding T-bevel and protractor, Figure6-20.

The saw-mounted gauge is seldom accurate

enough for nish cutting. Place one edge against

the fence and push the board with your hand or

push stick.

Since you will be cutting at an angle, the

blade may need to be raised to cut all the way

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Figure6-19. This featherboard was made in the

woodshop.

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Figure6-20. Don’t depend on the saw’s angle

gauge to be accurate. Always check the angle

with a protractor and sliding T-bevel.

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Figure6-21. The miter gauge on most table saws

is preset to 45°.

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136 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Sawing a Rabbet

A rabbet is a type of wood joint commonly

used in drawer and cabinet construction. One-

half the thickness of the wood is removed so

another piece can t into position.

Lay out the size of the rabbet on the end of

the stock and set the blade to this height. Place

the stock at on the table with the marked edge

next to the fence. Use a push stick to move the

board into the saw as if you were ripping stock.

Place the edge of the board against the fence and

make the second cut. See

Figure6-23.

Cutting a Groove

or Dado

Grooves and dadoes are other types of wood

joints used in cabinet construction. Grooves run

parallel with the grain of the wood. Dadoes run

across the grain of the wood,

Figure6-24.

Grooves and dadoes are usually cut with a

dado head. A dado head makes a wide cut in a

piece of stock. Dado heads should not be used

to cut all the way through stock. Two types of

dado heads are available,

Figure6-25. One type

consists of two saw blades and a set of chip-

pers with cutting edges varying from 1/16″ to

1/4″ wide. The chippers are set up between the

blades to the width of the desired cut. Dadoes or

grooves ranging from 1/8″ to 13/16″ wide can be

made. The other type of dado head consists of

three parts. In this type of dado head, the center

piece (containing the cutters) is turned to adjust

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Figure6-22. A shop-made miter sled makes it

easy to cut miter joints on the circular saw.

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Figure6-23. Sawing a rabbet. A—Making the

ﬁrst cut. B—Making the second cut.

the blade to the desired width. This type of dado

head is easy to use and provides a good, clean

cut. In either case, a different throat plate must be

installed to allow clearance for the wider blade.

When cutting a groove or dado, adjust the

dado head to the width and depth of the cut de-

sired. Check these settings using a scrap piece of

stock. Use a push stick to move the stock slowly

into the dado head as in ripping. Make sure you

hold the stock securely, since the dado head is

removing more stock than a standard blade.

Cutting a Tenon

A tenon is a projecting piece of wood

designed to t into a mortise (groove or slot).

Mortise-and-tenon joints are commonly used in

furniture construction and cabinetmaking.

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Section 6.1 Table Saw 137

However, a dado head is suggested to reduce the

number of steps required.

First, set up the dado head to the width of the

shoulder of the tenon. Install the proper throat

plate. Adjust the height of the dado head to the

depth of the tenon shoulder. Place the tenoning

jig in the miter groove. Firmly clamp a piece of

scrap lumber the same size as the tenon stock

into the jig. Keep the saw turned off and move the

tenoning jig toward the dado head. Stop just as

the stock begins to touch the dado head. Adjust

the stops on the tenoning jig for the left shoulder

and tighten the lock nut. Repeat this procedure

for the right shoulder. Move the jig away from

the dado head. Turn on the motor and make a

test cut. Adjust the jig as necessary before using

the nish stock.

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Figure6-24. The dado cut is used in many wood

projects.

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Figure6-25. The adjustable, or wobble, cut

blade shown on the left is the most versatile

dado blade. The width of the cut is set by turning

the dial.

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Figure6-26. Cutting a tenon using a tenoning

jig. A—Make adjustments for the left shoulder.

B—Make adjustments for the right shoulder.

To make a tenon, material is removed from

both sides of the stock. A table saw with a ten-

oning jig will cut an accurate tenon safely,

Figure 6-26. A standard rip blade, combination

blade, or dado head can be used to cut a tenon.

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138 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

5. True or False? A movable fence on the table

saw is used for accurate ripping of stock.

6. The _____ is used to aid in crosscutting and

mitering pieces of stock.

A. fence

B. guard

C. miter gauge

D. splitter

7. True or False? The table saw blade should

not be raised more than 2″ above the stock.

8. The blade that has both crosscut and rip

teeth and is used for all-purpose cutting on

the table saw is a _____ blade.

A. crosscut

B. rip

C. dado

D. combination

9. True or False? If you need to crosscut several

pieces of stock all to the same length, a stop

block should be attached to the fence.

10. When ripping long stock, the _____ stand

can be used to support the stock as it comes

off the saw table.

A. outfeed stand

B. miter gauge

C. featherboard

D. tenoning jig

11. A _____ is an angled cut along the edge of a

board.

A. bevel

B. miter

C. groove

D. None of the above.

12. True or False? Miters are angled cuts made

across a board.

13. True or False? Sawing a rabbet requires three

cuts.

14. True or False? Grooves run across the grain

of the wood.

15. True or False? To make a tenon, material is

removed from one side of the stock.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? Only the person operating the

power saw needs to wear eye protection.

2. The guard on the table saw protects fingers

and hands and also deflects _____ from the

eyes.

A. sawdust

B. kickback

C. splinters

D. None of the above.

3. True or False? The anti-kickback device is

designed to prevent kickback or to reduce

the speed of a piece of stock if a kickback

occurs.

4. The _____ is used to hold the kerf open

when ripping with a table saw.

A. splitter

B. guard

C. fence

D. miter gauge

Going Green

Many of the power woodworking

machines create sawdust and

chips while performing cutting or

drilling processes. After using these

machines, one should sweep up

all of the sawdust and save it. This

sawdust works great when applied

to any spilled liquids on the ﬂoor. The

sawdust will absorb the liquid and

then it can be swept up and placed in

a container.

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SAMPLE

The distance between the tabletop and the

upper blade guide determines the maximum

thickness of stock the band saw can cut. This

distance is usually 4″–6″.

Blades for the 14″ band saw are available in

widths from 1/8″ to 1″.

Figure 6-28 shows the

minimum radius that can be cut by a given

blade width. Do not cut a radius that is smaller

than what the blade can handle safely. Band

saw blades are available in a variety of tooth

sizes and styles. The proper tooth style or size

is determined by the type of material being cut

Section 6.2

Band Saw

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using the band saw.

• Discuss how to select the appropriate blade

for a procedure on the band saw.

• Demonstrate how to make rough and

nished cuts, curved cuts, and bevel cuts.

• Demonstrate resawing.

Technical Terms

band saw

pad sawing

resawing

The band saw,

Figure6-27, has a wide variety

of uses. It can make straight or curved cuts, with

or without a guide. It can cut wood, plastic, and

metal.

The blade of a band saw is a continuous steel

band that revolves on two wheels, one below the

table and one above it. The upper wheel is ad-

justable to tighten or loosen the blade. It can also

be tilted forward and backward to adjust track-

ing of the blade so that it “rides” in the middle of

the wheel.

The size of a band saw is determined by the

distance from the blade to the back of the saw.

Normally, this distance is the same as the diam-

eter of the wheels. The band saws used in most

school woodshops range in size from 10″ to 14″.

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, ﬂip

through the pages and make notes of

the major headings. Compare these

headings to the objectives. What did

you discover? How will this help you

prepare to read new material?

Delta International Machinery Corp.

Figure6-27. The band saw blade cuts with a

downward motion.

/2 2

/2 1

/16

Minimum Radius of Cut

Blade Width

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-28. Blade guide for selecting the proper

blade width for the curve radius being cut.

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SAMPLE

140 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

• Keep your hands to the side of the

blade, away from the blade’s path.

• Keep your fingers at least 2″ from the

blade at all times. Use a fixture to hold

small pieces.

• Make relief cuts when sawing curves

that have a small radius.

• Work within the capacity of the saw. A

thick piece of stock must be fed into the

blade more slowly than a thin piece.

• If the blade breaks, step aside and

disconnect the electricity to the

machine.

• Observe the safety zone around the

band saw. If a blade breaks, it will

occasionally “climb” out to the right

side of the operator.

• Do not back out of stock unless the

blade is at a dead stop.

• Do not use your fingers to remove

scraps around the blade.

• Do not try to stop the blade with any

kind of force.

• Freehand sawing on the band saw

should be done only when very dark

lines have been drawn on the stock.

• If the machine is making unusual

noises, turn it off and notify the

instructor.

Finishing the Job

• When you are finished making your

cut, turn off the machine and let the

blade come to a complete stop. Use a

push stick to clear scraps away from

the blade.

• Never leave the saw unattended while

the blade is still moving.

and the coarseness of the cut you want to ob-

tain. The total length of the blade is specied

by the band saw manufacturer.

The upper and lower guide assemblies

should be checked frequently. Always consult

the instructor if the saw is out of adjustment.

The blade guides should clear the blade by about

0.003″ (approximately the thickness of a piece of

paper). The roller supports (backing bearings)

should clear the back of the blade by about 1/32″.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Band Saw

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the band

saw. Make sure others will not be in the

machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow the general

safety rules, as well as the ones listedhere.

Before Turning on the Power

• Make all adjustments before the

power is turned on.

• Always keep the upper guide

assembly 1/8″–1/4″ above the stock.

This prevents an excess amount of the

blade from being exposed.

• Plan your sawing procedure so there

will be maximum forward feed and a

minimum of backing out.

• If you will be cutting cylindrical stock,

clamp it or use a special holding

device.

• Never turn the band saw on with the

wheel guards off.

While Cutting

• Place the stock on the table so it lies

flat and firm.

• Allow the saw to reach full speed

before starting to cut. Push the stock

forward rather than to the side.

Making Rough Cuts

Lay out the cuts to be made on the stock and

consider the sequence of the cuts. Short cuts

should be made rst,

Figure 6-29. Straight cuts

should be made before curved cuts. To save time,

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SAMPLE

Section 6.2 Band Saw 141

to guide the material. The rate of speed will de-

pend on the type of wood and also on its thick-

ness. Narrow, straight stock (less than 3″ wide) is

ripped using a fence and a push stick,

Figure6-31.

Making Finished Cuts

In order to make nished cuts on the band

saw, you will have to use the fence attachment or

the miter gauge. These two devices are similar to

the ones used on the table saw discussed previ-

ously in this chapter. The wood stock should be

surfaced so it lies at on the table, and one edge

of the board should also be straight so it will lie

at against the fence.

Making Curved Cuts

One of the main uses of the band saw is the

cutting of curved lines. Depending on the size

of the curved cuts, special care may be needed

to prevent the blade from straining or twisting.

For sharp curved cuts, it might be advisable to

make relief cuts into the waste material before

starting to cut the curve,

Figure6-32. The relief

cuts will help prevent the binding of the blade

as it makes the turns in the wood. Refer again

Figure6-29, which shows the relationship be-

tween the width of a blade and the radius it will

cut without twisting or straining.

duplicate pieces can be cut on the band saw by

rst fastening the wood pieces together with sev-

eral nails driven into the waste area,

Figure6-30.

This method is called pad sawing or multiple

sawing.

Before starting the cut, place the stock on

thesaw table and adjust the guidepost so thatthe

upper guide assembly is about 1/4″ above

the work. Have the instructor check the setup

before you turn on the machine. When cutting,

keep your hands to the sides of the cutting line,

out of the direct line of the saw blade. Use only

enough forward pressure to keep the blade cut-

ting. You should feed the wood stock into the

blade using your right hand. Use your left hand

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-29. Planning the cuts carefully helps to

eliminate mistakes.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-30. Multiple pieces can be cut at one

time on the band saw. Fasten pieces together by

nailing in the waste area.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-31. Keep your ﬁngers away from the

moving blade by using a push stick.

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SAMPLE

142 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

on most band saws by using the tilt scale. If the

band saw does not have a tilt scale, then set the

desired angle using a T-bevel. If you are making

a straight bevel cut, you will have to use the rip

fence or miter gauge.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? A band saw can only be used

to cut curves.

2. True or False? The band saw has a

continuous blade that revolves on two

wheels.

3. What determines the maximum thickness

of stock that can be cut on the band saw?

A. Type of wood

B. Size of the blade

C. Distance between the tabletop and

upper blade guide

D. None of the above.

4. Blades for the 14″ band saw are available in

widths from 1/8″ to _____.

A. 2″

B. 3″

C. 1″

D. 4″

5. True or False? When using the band saw,

keep your hands to the side of the blade.

6. True or False? Pad sawing is used to make

duplicate pieces of stock.

Resawing

Resawing is done to reduce the thickness of

stock. Instead of reducing the thickness of the

wood by surfacing, you cut off the excess material

on the band saw. A guide must be clamped to the

table,

Figure6-33. This guide will help produce

an accurate cut. The blade used in this operation

should be at least 1/2″wide.

Bevel Cuts

Most band saws have tables or heads that

will tilt to various angles for bevel cutting,

Figure6-34. The angle of the tilt can be adjusted

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-32. Relief cuts will help prevent

breaking the blade.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-33. Resaw stock on the band saw to

avoid having to surface the material to make it

thinner.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-34. The table on the band saw can be

adjusted to various angles for bevel cuts.

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SAMPLE

143

9. True or False? Resawing is done to reduce

the thickness of stock.

10. The table on most band saws can be tilted to

various angles to allow for _____ cutting.

A. bevel

B. dado

C. rabbet

D. curved

7. In order to make finished cuts on the

band saw, you will have to use the fence

attachment or the _____.

A. miter gauge

B. tilt table

C. push stick

D. None of the above.

8. To keep the blade from straining or

twisting on a sharp curve, you should make

_____ cuts into the material before starting

the curve cut.

A. straight

B. bevel

C. dado

D. relief

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SAMPLE

144 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

the back of the arm. The blade moves up and

down, cutting only on the downward stroke like

any other scroll saw. The motor pulls the blade

down, and the tension sleeve pulls the blade up.

The number of strokes (up and down cycles) per

minute may be changed by either moving a belt

on a cone pulley or by an adjustable pulley.

The other two types of scroll saws are

constant- tension saws, meaning that the blade

always has a certain amount of tension. These

saws are capable of doing very detailed work

in stock up to 2″ thick. Blade breakage tends to

be less of a problem with the constant-tension

saws. In addition, the proper blade will allow

you to actually turn around in the kerf.

Many different blades are available for these

saws. The type of blade to use depends onthe

kind and thickness of the stock, as well as

the diameter of the curves being cut. Almost all

blades for scroll saws are 5″ long. The teeth of

the blade must point downward toward the table

when installed.

When using a xed arm saw, adjust the ten-

sion sleeve to prevent binding of the blade during

a cycle (one up stroke and one down stroke). The

pressure foot, or hold-down, should be placed

snugly on top of the stock being cut,

Figure6-36.

On a constant-tension scroll saw, the blade is

brought under tension with an adjusting knob

located at the back of the saw. The thumbscrew

just above the blade in the front of the overarm

should not be tight. However, it should be low-

ered just enough to prevent the upper blade

clamp from popping out if a blade breaks. If this

Section 6.3

Scroll Saw

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using the scroll saw.

• Identify the main parts of the scroll saw and

tell what adjustments should be made to

perform various operations.

• Demonstrate internal cuts, stack cutting,

and marquetry sawing on the scroll saw.

Technical Terms

marquetry

scroll saw

stack cutting

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, make a

list of safety rules for use with the

scroll saw. After reading the section,

compare your list to the actual list.

What, if any, safety rules did you

overlook?

A scroll saw, or jigsaw, is used to cut arcs or

curves in stock,

Figure6-35. This power saw al-

lows you to perform the same tasks as with the

coping saw, but more quickly and with greater

accuracy. These saws are fun to operate and

are probably the safest of the power tools in the

woodshop. While some woodworkers distin-

guish between scroll saws and jigsaws, in this

textbook the terms are used interchangeably.

Scroll saws are available in three basic designs:

the xed (or rigid) arm saw, the C-frame constant-

tension saw, and the parallel arm constant- tension

saw. Each of these saws has its own features,

advantages, and benets.

The xed arm saw will cut stock up to about

1″ thick. The maximum length of stock that can

be cut is equal to the distance from the blade to

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-35. Scroll saws are used by novice and

experienced woodworkers.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.3 Scroll Saw 145

• Push the stock forward rather than

toward the sides.

• Keep the hold-down adjusted properly

to prevent the wood from being raised

off the table.

thumbscrew is tightened against the upper blade

clamp, blade breakage is likely to occur. The

hold-down is used more for guiding the blade

and for safety reasons rather than actually hold-

ing the stock being cut.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-36. Make sure the pressure foot is

holding the workpiece down onto the table.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Scroll Saw

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the scroll

saw. Make sure others will not be in

the machine’s safety zone while you

are operating it. Be sure to follow the

generalsafety rules, as well as the ones

listed here.

• Unplug the saw before making any

adjustments.

• Make sure that the blade is installed

properly with the teeth pointing down.

• Turn the saw by hand before turning

on the power. This ensures that the

blade is not binding.

• Keep your fingers away from the front

of the saw blade and out of the cutting

path at all times.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-37. The starter hole for internal cuts

should be the same size as the blade.

Making an Internal Cut

The procedure for making an internal cut

with a scroll saw is similar to making an inter-

nal cut with a coping saw. First, make sure the

scroll saw is unplugged. Drill a hole with a large

enough diameter to insert the blade in the waste

area of the stock near the cutting line. Loosen the

guidepost and the hold-down. If you are using

a xed arm saw, turn the machine to the down-

ward stroke by hand. Place the blade (teeth point-

ing downward) through the stock to be cut and

through the hole in the table,

Figure6-37. Insert

the blade end into the lower blade clamp. Place

the other end of the blade in the upper blade

clamp and adjust the blade tension. Finally, place

the hold-down in position. Until you become fa-

miliar with this procedure, have your instructor

check the setup before turning on the saw.

When sawing, guide the work with both

hands, pushing forward just fast enough to keep

the saw cutting. Do not cut sharp bends; they

can be cut out later. Avoid starting a cut in the

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SAMPLE

146 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Marquetry Sawing

Marquetry, or inlay, is a technique for form-

ing designs in wood. Two or more kinds of wood

are fastened together to make a stack. A very-ne

blade is installed in the saw. A small drill is used

to make a hole into which the scroll saw blade is

placed to start the cut,

Figure6-40. After the cut

has been made, the two pieces are interchanged

to form a unique design,

Figure6-41.

The table on the scroll saw can be placed at a

6° angle when making marquetry cuts. The cuts

are then made on only one side of the blade. This

is done so when the two pieces are pressed to-

gether, they will t tightly and the saw kerf will

be closed.

middle of a straight or slightly curved area. In-

stead, start a cut at an endpoint. Use relief cuts

whenever possible, but avoid making them too

deep. Relief cuts allow waste to break loose as

you saw your workpiece. Each relief cut should

be made almost to the cutting line. Do not over-

cut because these marks are very difcult to

sand out later.

Stack Cutting

Stack cutting is the process of fastening two

or more thin pieces of wood together and sawing

them all at the same time. This process not only

saves time but also ensures that all the items will

be the same size and shape.

The most important thing in stack cutting is

keeping all of the pieces together without shift-

ing. This can be done in several ways. Using

brads or nails is the quickest and easiest method

of holding the pieces together,

Figure6-38. Make

sure each layer is at and tight to the next layer.

There should not be any gaps between the lay-

ers. The layers could also be kept together with

staples, double-sided tape, or adhesive applied

with a hot glue gun. Keep in mind that the to-

tal thickness of all the layers should not exceed

the maximum thickness your scroll saw can cut.

Figure6-39 shows the duplicate parts made by

stack cutting.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-38. Brads or nails can be used to hold

the pieces together.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-39. The cut pieces are all the same size

and shape.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-40. Have the instructor check your

setup before starting the cut.

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SAMPLE

147

2. Scroll saws are available in three basic

designs: _____.

A. fixed, C-frame, parallel

B. parallel, jointer, miter

C. miter, C-frame, parallel

D. None of the above.

3. True or False? The blade on the scroll saw

moves up and down and cuts only on the

upward stroke.

4. True or False? The hold-down foot on the

scroll saw holds down the stock snugly

against the table.

5. True or False? When making an internal cut

with a scroll saw, it is necessary to first drill

a small hole in the waste area of the stock.

6. True or False? For stack cutting, the wood

pieces can be held together with tape.

7. _____ is a technique in which two or more

kinds of wood are cut and combined to

form a design.

A. Marquetry

B. Stack cutting

C. Internal cutting

D. None of the above.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-41. The wood pieces chosen for

marquetry usually have contrasting colors, grain

patterns, or both.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. Another common name for the scroll saw is

_____.

A. table saw

B. jointer

C. jigsaw

D. drill press

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SAMPLE

148 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

length. The tilting head makes it possible to cut

angles on the ends of stock. In addition, if the

overarm is set at an angle other than 90°, nearly

perfect compound angles can be cut.

A number of accessories made for the table

saw can also be used with the radial arm saw.

These include sanding discs, molding heads,

and dado heads. Other accessories designed just

for the radial arm saw include Jacobs chucks,

cutoff stops, mitering jigs, drum sanders, and

pin router devices.

The radial arm saw blade cuts into the wood-

en table with each cut that is made. To reduce

damage, use small nails or brads to attach a 1/4″

thick piece of plywood to the original top. Make

sure the nails are not in the blade’s path. When

the plywood top is scored with saw cuts, simply

replace it.

Crosscutting on the radial arm saw is

somewhat different than on the table saw.

Stock is pushed through on the table saw. On

the radial arm saw, the motor-blade assembly

slides along the overarm and cuts through the

stock. However, for cutting grooves or ripping,

the stock is pushed through the blade as on the

table saw.

Section 6.4

Radial Arm Saw

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Name the major parts of the radial arm saw

and their function.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using this machine.

• Demonstrate the proper method of

crosscutting and ripping.

• Demonstrate the proper method of cutting

dadoes, grooves, miters, bevels, and

compound miters.

Technical Terms

compound miter radial arm saw

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, skim the

Know and Understand questions at

the end of the section. Use them to

help you focus on the most important

concepts as you read the chapter.

A radial arm saw is sometimes described as

a circular saw on rails,

Figure6-42. The head con-

tains the motor-blade assembly and slides along

a horizontal overarm track. The head can swivel

and tilt, and the arm itself can also be adjusted.

The size of a radial arm saw is determined by the

diameter of the blade. The most common sizes

are 10″ and 12″.

The radial arm saw was originally designed

for very accurate crosscutting at a 90° angle, as

well as other desired angles. It is now commonly

used in the woodshop for rough cutting stock to

Blade

wer guard

Yo ke

Column

Angle scale

Elevating handle

Radial arm

Fence

Upper guar

Miter scale

Ta ble

Delta International Machinery Corp.

Figure6-42. The parts of a radial arm saw

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SAMPLE

Section 6.4 Radial Arm Saw 149

• When ripping stock, make sure the

splitter and anti-kickback device are

properly adjusted.

• When ripping, make sure to feed the

stock into the blade against the blade

rotation, and not in the direction of

therotation. The bottom teeth should

be turning toward you.

Finishing the Job

• Always return the motor-blade

assembly to the rear of the saw after

making a cut. All saws under OSHA

regulations must return automatically.

• Wait until the blade has stopped

turning before leaving the saw. All

newer models have an automatic

brake to stop the blade.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Radial Arm Saw

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the radial

arm saw. Make sure others will not

be in the machine’s safety zone while

you are operating it. Be sure to follow

general safety rules, as well as the ones

listedhere.

Before Turning on the Power

• Make all adjustments before the

power is turned on.

• Make sure the blade guard and

sawdust deflector are set properly for

the cut that is planned.

• Check the relationship of theblade

to the slot cut into the fence and

the groove cut into the table. Adjust

thefence as necessary to align all

three.

• Have the instructor check the setup

before you begin cutting.

While Cutting

• Allow the saw blade to reach its full

speed before beginning to cut stock.

• Keep your hand that is not on the

motor-blade assembly at least 6″ from

the blade and the cutting path. Tuck

your thumb under your hand. Hold

the stock in position with the heel of

yourhand.

• Cut only one piece of stock at a time.

Do not stack pieces or place them

edge to edge because you could lose

control of the stock.

• Always hold the stock firmly against

the fence for all crosscutting

operations.

Crosscutting

In crosscutting, the stock is held against the

fence, and the blade is pulled through the stock.

Before you cut, make sure the blade is properly

attached to the motor. As you look at the end of

the motor, the blade should rotate in a clockwise

direction. Be sure that the fence and movable

portion of the table have been rmly tightened.

When preparing for a 90° crosscut, rst place

a steel square against the fence, aligned with the

path of the saw blade. Gently pull the saw along

the square with the power turned off. The teeth

of the blade should be the same distance away

from the square at all points along the blade

path. If there is any variance, consult the owner’s

manual for proper saw adjustment. Remove the

steel square and any other tools from the table

before making your cut.

After determining the squareness, turn on

the power and lower the blade into the table un-

til it makes a cut 1/8″–1/4″ in depth. Pull the saw

along its entire path. The saw kerf clearly indi-

cates the blade’s path. Turn off the saw.

Carefully mark and square the desired cut-

ting location on your stock. Align this mark with

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SAMPLE

150 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

back of the blade, the power of the motor will

force the stock to “shoot” under the blade with-

out being cut, and without your control. This is a

very hazardous situation.

Most radial arm saws allow the motor-blade

assembly and carriage to be rotated either left

or right for in-ripping or out-ripping operations.

The width of the stock being ripped and the size

of the saw determine whether to set the saw for

in-ripping or out-ripping.

Disconnect the power to the radial arm saw.

Raise the carriage slightly above the table and

rotate the head either left or right depending on

the width of the cut. Secure the head into posi-

tion. Loosen the carriage locknut and pull the

carriage until the desired width is obtained be-

tween the fence and the saw blade. Tighten the

carriage locknut. Check this measurement with

a rule and adjust as necessary.

Reconnect the power and turn on the saw.

Lower the blade into the table about 1/8″– 1/4″.

Turn the power off and rotate the blade guard to

approximately 1/4″ above the stock. Adjust and

align the anti-kickback device and splitter. Refer

to the owner’s manual for specic adjustment pro-

cedures. Make sure one edge of the stock has been

squared. Place this edge against the fence. Turn

on the power and feed the stock into the blade.

Continue the cut using a push stick if necessary.

Cutting Dadoes and

Grooves

Dadoes and grooves can be cut on the ra-

dial arm saw by mounting a dado head on the

saw arbor. The advantage in making these

cuts on the radial arm saw instead of the table

saw is that you can see the cuts being made on

the stock surface that is facing up,

Figure6-45.

If you are using a full-width dado head, you

might not be able to use the outside collar

that fits on the saw arbor. If you cannot get

thecollar on the arbor, make sure that the nut

is turned on the full depth of the threads.

Make all adjustments and set up the saw

in the same way as for crosscutting. Lower the

blade to the correct depth of your dado or groove.

After you have made this depth adjustment,

make a practice cut on a scrap piece of stock.

Measure the depth of the cut. If it is not correct,

the cut made in the fence. Make sure the saw

kerf will be made in the waste portion of your

stock. Firmly hold the stock against the fence,

keeping your hands away from the blade path.

Turn on the saw and gently pull the saw through

the stock,

Figure6-43. Be prepared to use some

backward pressure on the saw carriage as the

blade cuts through the stock. Return the saw to

its original position and turn off the saw. Check

the cut for squareness.

Ripping

When ripping stock, remember that the blade

rotates into the stock at the front of the blade, not

the back,

Figure6-44. If the stock is fed from the

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-43. Crosscutting on the radial arm saw.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-44. Ripping on the radial arm saw.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.4 Radial Arm Saw 151

also similar to crosscutting. However, before you

make a bevel cut, rst raise the arm of the saw so

the blade is clear of the table. Then tilt the mo-

tor to the desired angle of the cut you wish to

make. Next, lower the arm until the blade will

cut about 1/16″ into the table. Now follow the

same procedures as crosscutting.

Compound miters consist of both a miter cut

and bevel cut made at the same time. In this pro-

cess the arm is adjusted rst to the proper mi-

ter angle. Next the motor is tilted to the proper

angle. After both of these adjustments are made,

you can make your cut,

Figure6-47.

raise or lower the blade until the proper depth is

reached. You should also check to make sure the

width of the cut is correct. If it is not correct, you

will have to add or remove some of the inside

blades until you have the proper width. Some-

times you might have to add paper ller inserts

to achieve the correct width.

When you are ready to make your cut, place

the workpiece on the table with your layout lines

facing up. Place the stock rmly against the saw

fence. Check the alignment of the dado head

with the layout lines. If everything is correct,

turn on the machine and pull the blade slowly

through the stock.

If you are making grooves, use the same

dado head set to the correct width for the groove.

The machine setup should be the same as if you

are ripping stock, and the same procedures and

safety precautions should be followed.

Cutting Bevels, Miters,

and Compound Miters

It is easier to cut bevels, miters, and com-

pound miters on a radial arm saw than on a table

saw. The main advantage of using the radial arm

saw is that the stock is stationary. You can see the

cut being made, and large pieces can be handled

very easily.

If you are making a miter cut across the

grain of the wood, follow the same procedures

as for crosscutting,

Figure6-46. The bevel cut is

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-45. Cutting dadoes on the radial arm

saw allows you to see the cut as it is being

made.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-46. To make miter cuts on the radial

arm saw, adjust the arm to the desired angle and

proceed as with crosscutting.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-47. A compound miter (miter plus

bevel) is cut by changing the blade angle and the

arm angle.

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SAMPLE

152 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

5. Grooves can be cut with the radial arm saw

by mounting a _____ on the saw arbor.

A. locknut

B. sanding disc

C. dado head

D. splitter

6. True or False? Cutting bevels and miters

on the radial arm saw is similar to

crosscutting.

7. In compound miter cuts, a miter and _____

are cut at the same time.

A. bevel

B. dado

C. rabbet

D. chamfer

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? The radial arm saw was

originally designed for ripping stock to

width.

2. Today, the radial arm saw is commonly

used for _____.

A. 90° crosscutting

B. ripping

C. cutting grooves

D. dado cutting

3. True or False On the radial arm saw, the

motor-blade assembly slides along the

overarm.

4. True or False When ripping on the radial

arm saw, the blade rotates into the stock at

the front of the blade, not the back.

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SAMPLE

Various drill speeds can be obtained by ei-

ther a variable pulley or step pulleys. The slow-

est speed, usually 400–600 rpm, should be used

to bore holes 1″ in diameter or larger. A speed of

1200 rpm can generally be used to drill holes up

to 1/2″ in diameter.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Drill Press

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the drill

press. Make sure others will not be in

the machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow general

safety rules, as well as the ones listed

here.

• Unplug the drill press before making

adjustments.

• Never use a dull drill bit; a sharp bit

will produce better results and is less

apt to break.

• Clamp all stock to the drill press table

before drilling holes. Make sure that

you have a piece of scrap lumber

under your stock to keep the bit from

drilling into the table after it goes

through the workpiece. The scrap

piece will also prevent splintering as

the bit goes through the underside of

the workpiece.

• Place the hole in the center of the

table directly under the drill bit to

prevent the drill from striking the

table.

• Always make sure the chuck key has

been removed from the chuck prior to

turning on the drill.

• Have your instructor check the setup

prior to turning on the drill press.

Section 6.5

Drill Press

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Name the main parts of the drill press and

their functions.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using the machine.

• Demonstrate the proper method of drilling

holes in at and round wood stock.

• Demonstrate the proper method of drilling

holes at an angle.

• Describe how to use a drill press for cutting

large holes, sanding, boring duplicate holes,

and mortising.

Technical Terms

circle cutter

drill press

sanding drum

V-block

Reading Prep

Read the section title and write a

paragraph describing what you know

about this power tool. After reading

the section, summarize what you have

learned.

A drill press has a vertically mounted drill

bit that is raised and lowered toward a table.

The drill press is used to drill holes in wood and

other materials. It can also be used for sanding,

routing, shaping, and mortising. Drill press size

is twice the distance from the center of the drill

bit to the column. A 15″ drill press, for example,

will drill a hole 7 1/2″ from the edge of a piece

of stock.

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SAMPLE

154 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Figure6-49. Place a scrap board under the stock

to be drilled and use some type of mechanical

holding device (drill press vise or clamp) to hold

both pieces in place.

Turn on the drill. Make sure your hands are

clear of the path of the drill bit. Bring the bit into

cutting position with the feed lever using light

pressure. If the hole is deep, remove the bit from

the stock several times to pull out the chips and

to prevent the bit from overheating. When the

hole is completed, return the bit to its original

position by rotating the feed lever in the opposite

direction. Do not let the feed wheel snap back.

Shut off the motor and wait for the chuck to stop.

Drilling Round Stock

Round or irregularly shaped stock should be

held in a V-block,

Figure6-50, or in a drill press

vise, or it can be clamped to the table. If possi-

ble, the table should be turned for drilling into

large pieces. Follow the same procedures as per-

formed for drilling at stock.

• Do not force the bit into the stock.

Feed only fast enough for the drill to

cut well.

• Release the pressure when the drill

goes through the wood stock.

• Withdraw the drill frequently when

drilling deep holes to prevent

“burning” and “freezing” of the drill in

the stock.

• Bore large-diameter holes at the

slowest drill press speed.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-48. The chuck key has been attached to

the drill press column to keep it from being lost.

Before drilling, remove the key from the chuck

and make sure it will not interfere with your

work.

Drilling Flat Stock

Lay out and mark the holes to be drilled as

you would when using hand tools. Select the

correct size bit, insert it in the chuck, and tight-

en the chuck with the chuck key,

Figure6-48.

Make sure you remove the chuck key after

tightening.

Center the table under the drill bit. Adjust the

drill press for the proper chuck speed. (The speed

on some drill presses must be changed while the

motor is turned on.) Set the depth gauge if you

do not wish to drill all the way through the piece,

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-49. The depth gauge controls the depth

of the hole to be drilled.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.5 Drill Press 155

hands are out of the way before turning on the

power. Proceed slowly as you feed the cutter or

hole saw into the stock.

Sanding on the Drill

Press

Sanding drums are available in many sizes

and with abrasive sleeves of various grits,

Figure 6-52. The main sanding operation

performed on the drill press is edge sanding.

The sanding operation should be done at a high-

er rate of speed. The proper speed should be

Drilling Holes at an

Angle

Holes can be drilled at an angle by tilting the

drill press table. It can be difcult to keep the

drill bit from drifting off center. To prevent this,

take a piece of scrap stock and cut an angle across

one end equal to the angle of the drill press ta-

ble. This angle, which will be perpendicular to

the drill bit, enables you to cut straight into the

stock without straying. Set the drill press table

at the correct angle using a sliding T-bevel. Place

a piece of scrap lumber below the stock and put

the scrap lumber with the angle above the stock.

Clamp everything to the table. Perform the drill-

ing operation as you would when drilling at

stock.

Cutting Large Holes

Cut large holes in stock using either a circle

cutter or a hole saw,

Figure6-51. If using a circle

cutter, set it to the correct size before attaching

it to the machine. Make sure the center drill bit

is set about 1/4″ below the cutter so it can guide

and anchor the cutter.

Adjust the drill press to its slowest speed.

Clamp the stock to the drill table and have your

instructor check the setup. Make sure your

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-50. The V-block can be made in the

shop. It can also be used on the band saw when

cutting round stock.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-51. Cutting large holes. A—The circle

cutter can be preset to cut holes at any diameter.

B—Hole saws can be purchased singly or as a

set that includes several sizes.

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SAMPLE

156 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Boring Duplicate

Holes

When building a wood product, you might

need to bore several holes of the same size.

You can save yourself some time by building a

simple fixture or making a special setup. The

fixture for boring duplicate holes might consist

of an auxiliary table with a stationary fence.

If you clamp this fixture in the proper posi-

tion, you can bore a series of holes by moving

the stock along the fence. Marks can be placed

on the fence to indicate the center-to-center

distance between the holes, Figure6-54.

Mortising

If your wood project requires mortise-

and-tenon joints, you can use the drill press

to cut the mortise holes. You will need a mor-

tising attachment,

Figure 6-55. It consists of

a hollow, square mortising chisel in which

an auger bit rotates. The chisel is ground to

a very sharp point at each corner. After the

auger bit enters the wood, the sharp points of

the chisel cut the square opening.

Make sure the chisel is the same width

as the mortise to be cut. The workpiece you

are cutting should t against the fence that

is attached to the table. This fence will help

between750 rpmto 1500 rpm, if you are using

a variable speed drill press with the capacity to

change the speeds. Otherwise, you will have

torefer to the instruction manual, which will

show you how to change the position of the

belts to obtain different speeds. If possible, use

an auxiliary table that has an open throat larger

than the sanding drum.

For faster removal of wood material, you can

use a drum rasp,

Figure6-53. The drum rasp ts

into the drill chuck the same way as the sanding

drum, and it is used in the same manner. How-

ever, it will leave a rough edge that will require

sanding.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-52. The sleeves for the sanding drum

come in various grit sizes.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-53. The drum rasp removes wood very

quickly, but the surface will have to be ﬁne-

sanded later.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-54. With this ﬁxture, duplicate holes

can be made quickly.

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SAMPLE

157

• Keep your hands away from the chisel

while operating the machine.

• After mortising, don’t touch the bit

because it will be hot.

guide the stock and ensure the proper dimen-

sion for the mortise. Mortising attachments

usually come with a stock hold-down that

attaches to the drill press table and keeps the

stock in place.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-55. Mortise holes can be drilled with a

mortising attachment on the drill press.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? Drill press size is twice the

distance from the center of the drill bit to

the column.

2. True or False? To bore holes that are 1″ or

larger in diameter, you should use the

slowest speed on the drill press.

3. A piece of scrap stock should be placed

under the workpiece before drilling _____.

A. to hold both pieces in place.

B. to make a smooth hole

C. to prevent burning the wood

D. None of the above.

4. The _____ on the drill press is used to

tighten the chuck and secure the bits.

A. V-block

B. chuck key

C. depth gauge

D. None of the above.

5. True or False? The depth gauge is designed

to keep you from drilling all the way

through the material.

6. To drill round stock, clamp it to the drill

press table or hold it in a _____.

A. clamp

B. V-block

C. vise

D. hand

7. True or False? Cutting large holes can be

done with a hole saw or circle cutter.

8. To remove material quickly, use a _____

rather than a sanding drum.

A. file

B. hand plane

C. sandpaper

D. drum rasp

9. True or False? A mortising attachment

consists of a hollow chisel and an

augerbit.

S A F E T Y

Safety Rules for Mortising

Follow all safety rules for using the drill

press. In addition, observe the following

rules when mortising.

• Check the bit and chisel. They must

be sharp and securely fastened in the

drill press before it is started.

• Set the table low enough so the

chisel will not strike it or the clamped

scrap stock at the bottom of the

cutting stroke.

• Clamp all stock securely in position

before starting the cut.

Ch06_126-191.indd 157Ch06_126-191.indd 157 22-09-2022 12:24:0222-09-2022 12:24:02

SAMPLE

158 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

of cut. The adjustment is made with either the

handwheel or an adjustment lever located below

the infeed table. The outfeed table must be set

even with the cutting edges of the knives at their

highest point in their rotation. The outfeed table

should be locked in this position if straight cuts

are desired. The fence is used to guide stock as

it is pushed from the infeed table to the outfeed

table. The fence may be moved in or out to ac-

commodate different widths of stock. It may also

be tilted to make angular cuts. The cutter guard

is positioned over the cutterhead to protect the

operator from injury and to protect the edges

of the knives from damage. The cutter guard

is spring loaded. When stock is fed across the

jointer, the guard only exposes a small amount

of the cutterhead and knives.

Figure6-57 shows

a cross-sectional view of the jointer.

Section 6.6

Jointer

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Name the main parts of the jointer and their

function.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using this machine.

• Demonstrate the proper methods of jointing

the edge and surface of stock.

Technical Terms

infeed table

jointer

outfeed table

Reading Prep

As you read this section, list each

of the jointer processes described.

Include the speciﬁc details of each

process, such as the steps involved.

A jointer is used to remove warp and other

surface imperfections from the edges and faces

of stock to make it straight and true. Straight and

true stock is necessary to ensure that other op-

erations, such as sawing and drilling, will pro-

duce square (perpendicular) cuts and holes. The

jointer is also used to cut chamfers, bevels, rab-

bets, and tapers.

The size of the jointer is specied by the

length of its knives. The knives are the parts of

the jointer that actually do the cutting. A jointer

usually has three knives, which rotate in a cutter-

head at about 4500 rpm. The jointer is equipped

with an infeed table, outfeed table, fence, and

cutter guard,

Figure 6-56. The infeed table, or

front table, is adjusted to the desired depth

Fence

Base

Infeed

table

Outfeed

table

Depth

scale

Power switch

Delta International Machinery Corp.

Figure6-56. A jointer is used to surface the face,

edge, or end grain of wood.

Fence

Wood stock

Outfeed table Infeed table

Cutter head

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-57. Jointer operation. The cutterhead

rotates clockwise, and the stock is fed into it.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.6 Jointer 159

Stock Size and Depth

of Cut Limitations

Stock to be smoothed on a jointer should be

at least 12″ long. This allows a good portion of

the stock to be on the outfeed table as the last

portion of the stock is leaving the infeed table.

For jointing the surface of stock, the minimum

surface width should be 1″ and the minimum

thickness should be 3/8″. For jointing the edge

of stock, the minimum surface width should be

2″–3″, and the minimum thickness should

be 3/8″,

Figure 6-58. These dimensions allow

you to keep your ngers well above the cutters.

Variations of these minimums are possible

withthe use of special jigs and xtures designed

for theoperator’s protection.

Stock that projects beyond the length of the

infeed table by more than 18″ should be jointed

by two people. The operator should be in control

of feeding the stock, while the assistant should

balance the weight of the stock. It is good prac-

tice to carefully plan your work to avoid jointing

short pieces. Stock that is 48″–60″ long is a man-

ageable length. Stock that is 10″–12″ long should

be cut into two or three manageable pieces prior

to jointing, unless the long lengths are necessary

for the product.

The depth of cut depends on the width

and hardness of the stock, as well as the feed

rate. Generally, lumber that is hard and wide

should be fed slowly into the jointer. Maximum

recommended depth of cut for hardwoods is

1/32″–1/16″. Softwoods may be jointed using

a1/16″–1/8″ depth of cut.

12″

2–3″

/8″

8″

1″

Outfeed table Infeed table

Minimum Length of Stock for All Operations

Surface Jointing Minimum Dimensions

Edge Jointing Minimum Dimensions

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-58. Minimum stock dimensions for the jointer.

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SAMPLE

160 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

• Do not stand directly behind the

infeed table. Stand to the left of the

infeed table to protect yourself from

kickback.

• Feed the stock so the knives cut with

the grain.

• Keep your hands at least 4″ away from

the knives and cutterhead.

• Change the position of your hands

so they do not pass directly over the

cutterhead when feeding the stock,

and never drag your thumb or fingers

behind the stock.

• Use a push stick or push block for

planing flat surfaces and jointing

narrow edges.

• Hold the stock firmly on the table or

against the fence as it is run over the

jointer.

• Surface cupped stock with the

concave side down. This allows you to

have two points of the stock in contact

with the table.

• When jointing long pieces of stock,

have a helper support the end so it

doesn’t drop.

Finishing the Job

• When you are finished, turn off the

machine and let it come to a complete

stop before clearing away scraps.

• Never leave the jointer unattended

while the knives are still moving.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Jointer

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the jointer.

Make sure others will not be in the

machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow general

safety rules, as well as those listed here.

Before Turning on the Power

• Make sure the stock is within the

recommended limits for thickness,

width, and length. It should be free

from knots, splits, and foreign objects

such as nails or screws.

• Do not attempt to run odd-shaped

pieces, such as round stock, over the

jointer.

• Jointer knives must be kept sharp. Dull

knives cause vibration and poor cuts.

• Adjust the depth of cut before the

power is turned on. Do not remove

more than 1/8″ at a time for edge

jointing or more than 1/16″ for

surfacing.

• Never change the adjustment of the

outfeed table unless the instructor has

asked that it be done.

• Make sure the area beyond the infeed

table is clear before turning on the

motor.

• Adjust and lock the fence before

turning the jointer on.

• Do not attempt to operate the jointer

without the guard in proper position.

While Cutting

• Keep the guard closed over the knives

at all times while the jointer is being

used. Do not pull the guard open with

your fingers.

Jointing Edges

Adjust the fence so it is square with the infeed

table. To do this, place the handle of a try square

on the infeed table and rest the blade along the

fence,

Figure6-59. When the fence is in the prop-

er position, lock it in place. Set the depth of cut

for 1/32″–1/16″ using the handwheel or adjust-

ment lever. You might want to check your setup

at this time by using a piece of scrap lumber of

the same species as the nish stock. When you

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SAMPLE

Section 6.6 Jointer 161

to apply pressure against the fence and outfeed

table at the end of the stroke,

Figure6-62.

Narrow pieces can be jointed safely by using

a push stick. Make sure that you have the push

stick in hand before starting the jointing opera-

tion. The left hand should be lifted across the

cutterhead to apply pressure to the piece against

the fence and outfeed table.

Planing Surfaces

The surface, or face, of the stock must be true

before laying out other measurements. The rst

surface, or working surface, is smoothed with a

have determined that you have the correct setup,

inspect your nish stock to determine the grain

direction. Turn the stock so the knives will cut

with the grain.

Make sure the guard is in its proper position

over the cutterhead. Place the stock on its edge

on the infeed table. Rest the surface of the stock

against the fence. Stand to the left of the jointer

and turn on the motor. Allow the cutterhead to

come to full speed.

Hold the stock rmly against the fence and

infeed table while pushing it over the cutter-

head,

Figure6-60. When about a foot of the stock

has passed over the cutterhead, lift your left

hand from its original position and apply pres-

sure on the stock against the fence and outfeed

table with that hand,

Figure6-61. Use both hands

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-59. Make all adjustments while the

machine is in the “off” position.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-60. Applying pressure on the fence and

infeed table.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-61. Never allow your hands to pass over

the top of the cutterhead on the jointer. Lift your

left hand from its original position and then place

it down on the stock over the outfeed table.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-62. Applying pressure on the fence and

outfeed table.

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SAMPLE

162 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

and infeed table while pushing the stock over

the knives toward the outfeed table. Gradually

shift the pressure to the outfeed table as the cut

is completed. Continue to push the stock across

the jointer until the guard snaps back over the

cutterhead.

Planing a Taper

If your project calls for a taper, like on a table

leg, the jointer can make this simple cut with

some minor adjustment. Here are the steps you

will need to make:

1. Lay out the taper on the wood.

2. Mark a line on the wood where you want

the taper to start.

3. Place the stock on the infeed table of the

jointer about 1/2″ beyond the high point of

the jointer knives.

4. Clamp a stop block onto the infeed table so

it just touches the end of the taper.

5. Start the machine and place the stock

against the stop block, then lower the stock

onto the blade. Using a push stick move

the stock forward until the cut is finished,

Figure6-64. When making the cut, keep

firm pressure on the infeed table side of

the stock.

6. Continue making the taper cuts until

youreach the lines you have marked on

the stock.

jointer. Set the depth of cut for 1/32″. A smaller

depth of cut is required for surface planing than

for edge jointing because you will be removing

stock from a larger surface area. Turn the stock

so the knives will cut with the grain. Make sure

you have a push stick or push block in one of

your hands,

Figure6-63. Step to the side of the

jointer, make sure the guard is in its correct posi-

tion, and turn on the motor. Allow it to come to

full speed.

If the stock is warped, place it on the in-

feed table with the cupped surface down. Use

a push stick to apply pressure against the fence

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-63. Smoothing the surface of stock

using a push block.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher.

Figure6-64. Taper cuts for making table legs

can be easily made on the jointer.

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SAMPLE

163

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? The outfeed table must be set

even with the cutting edge of the jointer

knives.

2. The _____ is used to guide stock as it is

pushed from the infeed table to the outfeed

table.

A. cutter guard

B. fence

C. depth gauge

D. None of the above.

3. True or False? The proper depth of cut

depends on the width and hardness of the

stock and on the feed rate.

4. When jointing stock, where should you

stand in relation to the infeed table?

A. To the right of the infeed table.

B. To the left of the infeed table.

C. Behind the cutter blades.

D. None of the above.

5. True or False? The cupped surface of stock

should be placed down when jointing it.

6. When cutting a bevel one should _____.

A. adjust the fence at desired angle

B. hold stock firmly against the fence

C. keep hands 4” away from the blades

D. All of the above.

Planing Bevels and

Chamfers

In order to cut bevels and chamfers on the

jointer, the fence is set at an angle. Machines

will vary in the way this adjustment will be

made. You can set the angle of the fence either

away from the jointer table or toward the table,

Figure 6-65. Once the fence is set at the proper

angle, push the stock through several times until

the proper bevel or chamfer is cut.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher.

Figure6-65. Bevels and chamfers can be cut on

the jointer by tilting the fence.

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SAMPLE

164 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

Depth of cut is set by adjusting the table. The

smooth outfeed rollers grasp and pull thestock

as it passes below the cutterhead. The combina-

tion of the infeed and outfeed rollers ensures

a smooth, even feed of the stock across the

cutterhead.

Section 6.7

Planer/Surfacer

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Name the main parts of the planer and their

function.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using this machine.

• Calculate the correct depth of cut.

• Plane at stock to proper thickness.

Technical Terms

backing board

planer

surfacer

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, make

a list of the power woodworking

machinery you have learned about

so far in Chapter 6. Add the planer/

surfacer to your list and write a brief

description of how you think this

machine functions.

The planer, or surfacer, is used to machine

stock to exact thickness. A planer is equipped

with a cutterhead that usually contains

threeknives, similar to a jointer. However, un-

like the jointer, the planer cuts the stock on the

top surface. The size of a planer is specied

bythe length of the knives and the thickness of

thestock it willaccept. Common planer sizes

for the woodshop are 12″, 18″, and 24″.

A planer is equipped with four feed rollers:

two infeed and two outfeed. The upper infeed

roller, which is milled or corrugated to grip the

stock, and the lower infeed roller pull the stock

through the cutterhead. The chip breaker and

the pressure bar hold the stock down as it is fed

through the machine,

Figure6-66.

Pressure bar

Platen Stock

Lower outfeed

roller

Lower infeed

roller

Chip breaker

Upper outfeed

roller

Upper infeed

roller

Knife

Cutterhead

Feed direction

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-66. Planer operation. Note the position

of the parts and the feed direction.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Planer

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the

planer. Make sure others will not be

in the machine’s safety zone while

you are operating it. Be sure to follow

general safety rules, as well as the ones

listedhere.

Before Turning on the Power

• Never surface a piece of stock shorter

than the recommended minimum

length. Consult the instructor or

operation manual if this information

is not posted on the machine. The

minimum length of stock to be used

with most planers is 12″–16″.

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Section 6.7 Planer/Surfacer 165

Planing Stock

The stock to be planed must have one true

face. This face is rst smoothed on the jointer.

The cupped shape of defective stock will not be

removed by using only the planer. Instead, the

feed mechanism of the planer will atten the

stock before the stock enters the cutterhead. As

the stock leaves the planer, it will return to its

original shape.

Measure the stock at its thickest point to de-

termine its dimension. Set the planer for this

thickness minus the depth of cut. For example,

if the stock is 13/16″ thick and the depth of cut

is 1/16″, set the planer to 12/16″, or 3/4″. The rec-

ommended depth of cut is 1/32″–1/16″ for hard-

woods and 1/16″–1/8″ for softwoods. Make sure

that your stock is long enough to pass through

the planer without getting caught. The mini-

mum length of stock to be used with most plan-

ers is 12″–16″.

Position the stock so the knives will cut with

the grain. Make sure the true surface is down.

Grasp the board with both hands, one on each

side of the stock. Hold the stock horizontally and

allow the infeed rollers to pull the board across

the cutterhead. Make sure that you do not have

your ngers between the stock and the infeed

table. Stand to the side of the stock as you feed it;

do not stand directly behind the stock. Walk to

the back of the planer to receive the board.

Reset the depth of cut and make additional

cuts until the desired thickness is obtained.

When planing stock that is 6′ or more in length,

either have an assistant “tail off” or use an out-

feed stand to support the stock. If the stock is not

properly supported, its weight pulling down-

ward could result in an uneven nish thickness

or cause damage to the planer.

Planing Thin Stock

The minimum thickness that should be

planed on the machine is 1/4″. If you need to

plane a board that is thinner than 1/4″, then you

must use a backing board,

Figure6-67. Place the

thin stock on top of the backing board and set

your depth of cut to the desired thickness. Make

sure you allow for the thickness of the backing

board. For example, if your backing board is 3/4″

• Limit the depth of cut to 1/8″ for

narrow stock and 1/16″ for stock that

is wider. If more stock needs to be

removed, run the stock through the

planer again.

• Do not plane stock that is less than

1/4″ thick unless it is placed on a thick

board for support.

• Make all adjustments before the

power is turned on.

• Wait for the motor to reach full speed

before you start to feed the stock into

the planer.

While Cutting

• Stand to the side of the stock when

feeding. Do not stand directly behind

the stock.

• Hold the stock in a horizontal position

and with both hands as it is fed into

the planer.

• Feed stock so the planer knives cut

with the grain.

• Only one board should be planed at a

time.

• Wide stock and hardwood stock

should be fed at slow speeds. The

depth of cut should also be reduced.

• Do not change the depth of cut

while the board is going through the

machine.

• Never look into the mouth of the

planer while it is running. Chips of

wood can fly out of the planer with

great force.

• If stock gets caught or turns sideways,

stop the machine and call the instructor.

Finishing the Job

• When you are finished with the planer,

turn off the machine and let the planer

come to a complete stop before

clearing away chips.

• Never leave the planer unattended

while it is still moving.

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166 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

thick and the thickness of the stock you want to

plane is 1/4″, then set the depth gauge to 7/8″.

This will allow the machine to make the mini-

mum cut of 1/8″.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. True or False? The lower infeed roller of a

planer is milled or corrugated to grip the

stock.

2. True or False? The rate of feed for softwoods

is slower than for hardwoods.

3. True or False? The depth of cut should be

reduced when cutting hardwoods.

4. Suppose you have a piece of hardwood

stock that is 1″ thick. You want to plane it to

7/8 ″ thickness. At least _____ passes will be

needed to achieve this thickness.

A. one

B. two

C. three

D. four

5. True or False? Stock less than 1/4″ thick can

be planed if it is placed on top of a backing

board.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-67. If you must plane thin stock, use a

backing board under it.

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SAMPLE

Many wood products are cylindrical or cir-

cular in shape. Some examples are bowls, lamp

bases, table legs, and rails for chairs. These

items can be shaped on the wood lathe. The

shaping process is called wood turning.

Thewood stock is shaped with turning tools.

The tools are supported by a tool rest as the

stock rotates. In spindle turning, the work-

piece is held between centers on the lathe’s

headstock and tailstock. In headstock turning

(faceplate turning), a metal disc called a face-

plate is mounted on the headstock, and the

workpiece is fastened to this disc.

The headstock is usually at the left side of

the lathe bed and is permanently fastened to it.

It has a hollow, threaded spindle that is powered

by the motor. The motion of the spindle causes

the workpiece to rotate. The spindle can be t-

ted with a spur center (for spindle turning) or a

faceplate (for headstock turning).

The tailstock is usually located on the

right side of the lathe. Unlike the headstock,

it can slide back and forth along the lathe

bed; so it can be adjusted for the length of the

workpiece. The tailstock also has a spindle. For

most spindle turning, a cup center is inserted in

this spindleto hold one end of the workpiece.

Thetailstock is not used in faceplate turning.

The tool rest (tool support) can be moved

to various positions along the lathe bed. To

accommodate the size of the workpiece being

turned, the tool rest can also be moved up

ordown.

The lathe can be set to turn at various

speeds. The proper turning speed is very impor-

tant for safety. The diameter of the wood stock

will determine what speed should be used.

The table in Figure6-68 will help you select the

properspeeds.

Also keep in mind the following general

rules about proper speeds on the lathe:

• Always begin turning at a slow speed.

• Slow speeds will help keep the tools sharp.

• Sanding should be done at higher speeds

but not to the point where the abrasive

paper heats and glazes.

Section 6.8

Wood Lathe

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Identify the major parts of the wood lathe.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using this machine.

• Identify the six common turning tools and

their uses.

• Demonstrate how to prepare wood stock for

turning between centers.

• Demonstrate how to prepare wood stock for

faceplate turning.

• Demonstrate how to cut rough stock to a

cylindrical shape using the gouge.

• Demonstrate how to make nishing cuts

using the skew.

• Demonstrate how to cut tapers, shoulders,

beads, V-grooves, and coves.

• Demonstrate how to smooth stock on the

lathe by sanding.

• Demonstrate how to apply a French polish.

Technical Terms

bead

cove

headstock turning

lathe

spindle

spindle turning

taper

tool rest

wood turning

Reading Prep

Before reading this section, review

the highlighted terms within the body.

Determine the meaning of each term.

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SAMPLE

168 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

• Make sure the stock is fastened

securely. On faceplate work, screws

must be checked frequently to prevent

loosening.

• Adjust and keep the tool rest as close

to the stock as possible without

touching the stock.

• Rotate the stock by hand to make

certain it does not touch any part of

the lathe.

• Saw stock that is to be used for

faceplate work into a circular

shapebefore fastening it to the

faceplate.

• Follow the instructor’s directions

exactly when changing the speed

control setting.

• Remove the tool rest for sanding or

polishing work on the lathe.

While Working

• Stand to one side when the power is

first turned on.

• Use slow speeds for faceplate work on

large-diameter stock.

• Never attempt a shearing cut until

special instruction and permission

have been given by the instructor.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Wood Lathe

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the lathe.

Make sure others will not be in the

machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow general

safety rules, as well as the ones listed

here.

Before Turning on the Power

• Allow adequate drying time

before turning glued stock. (See

manufacturer’s instructions for

different glues.)

• Make sure the turning tools you will

be using are sharp.

• Square turning stock should have all

corners cut at 45° angles. Check to be

sure ends are properly marked and

kerfed.

• Make all adjustments and

measurements when the lathe is

turned off. Oil, grease, or soap should

be placed in the dead center cup.

Lathe Turning Speeds

Diameter of Stock

Rough Turning to Size

(rpm) General Cutting (rpm) Finishing Speed (rpm)

Under 2″

900–1300 2400–2800 3000–4000

2″–4″

600–1000 1800–2400 2400–3000

4″–6″

600–800 1200–1800 1800–2400

6″–8″

400–600 800–1200 1200–1800

8″–10″

300–400 600–800 900–1200

Over 10″

200–300 300–500 500–900

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-68. Lathe speeds for various stock diameters.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 169

Woodturning Tools

Six shapes of turning tools are commonly

used by wood turners,

Figure 6-69. The tools

are available in various widths, thicknesses,

and lengths.

Figure6-70 shows a complete set of

woodturning tools. The task to be performed de-

termines which tool should be used.

Gouge

A gouge is generally used to cut rough stock

to a cylindrical shape. A gouge cuts rapidly, but it

does not produce a smooth cut or surface. When

using a gouge, hold the convex side down. The

tool should be rolled 30°–45° in the direction it

is being moved along the tool rest. The cutting

edge should be slightly ahead of the handle

• Never use a gouge inside of a cup-

shaped piece.

• Be very careful never to touch the

chisel against the “up travel” side of

the faceplate work.

• Hold turning tools firmly against

the tool rest with both hands while

cutting stock on the lathe.

Finishing the Job

• When you are finished with the lathe,

turn off the machine and let it come to

a complete stop.

• Never leave the work area while the

lathe is still running.

60°

30°

25°

35°

60°

45°

30°

60°

40°

25° for softwoods

35° for hardwoods

Gouge

Round nose

Skew

Spear point

Parting tool

Flat nose

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-69. Common turning tools used for wood turning.

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170 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Skew

The skew is used to make nishing or

smoothing cuts, to cut beads and V-shaped

grooves, and to square shoulders. The skew is

placed at on the tool rest with the bevel down.

See

Figure 6-72. The tool should be held almost

level with the center of the stock. The handle can

be lowered slightly. Gently push the cutting edge

into the stock. Only the edge should contact the

material. The skew scrapes the material rather

than cutting it.

Parting Tool

The parting tool is thinner at the edges

than in the center. This shape allows you to

push the tool straight into the stock without

binding. As the name indicates, the tool is

used to part (separate) the nished part from

the rough stock. It is also valuable in establish-

ing initial diameters prior to cutting special

shapes,

Figure 6-73. This procedure provides

relief for the other cutting tools while estab-

lishing the nished depth.

when making the cuts. The bevel at the gouge

should contact the stock before the cutting edge.

This is easily accomplished by lowering the tool

handle 10°–15°. As the bevel rubs the stock, raise

the handle until the cutting edge begins to re-

move the material,

Figure6-71.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-70. Keep all of your lathe tools sharp to

ensure proper cutting.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-71. Using a gouge. A—Move the gouge

into the wood until the bevel touches it. B—Raise

the handle and move the edge into the wood.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-72. Place the skew with its beveled

edge down.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 171

To determine which wood is best for your proj-

ect, you must rst decide the purpose for the

turning. Is it to be a table leg or perhaps a candy

bowl? The purpose determines many variables.

If the turning will support a product structur-

ally, the stock must be kiln dried and straight

grained with minimal defects. However, if the

product is only decorative (such as the bowl),

defects and “wild” grain patterns can enhance

the nished appearance. Many professional

bowl turners use freshly cut wood that has been

discarded because of defects. This “wet” wood

turns very easily, and the defects add character

to their work.

Gluing Stock for Turning

For some products, several pieces of stock

may need to be glued together. This is done to

achieve the desired rough stock size, to make

allowance for the product design, for decora-

tive purposes, to stabilize a defect, or even to

allow separation of pieces after turning. See

Figure 6-75. Whenever stock is to be glued for

turning, only at and true pieces of stock should

be used. If the mating surfaces are not at, the

stock could separate during turning. This sepa-

ration could destroy the product or cause per-

sonal injury. Use a good white or yellow glue.

Do not attempt to turn glued stock until the glue

has set for at least 24 hours. Test the glued stock

by dropping it from shoulder height to the oor

to see whether it separates.

Round Nose, Spear Point,

and Flat Nose

These chisels are used when the tool shape

needs to t the contour of the work. As with the

skew, these tools usually make a scraping cut.

They are held at on the tool rest, approximate-

ly level with the center of the stock. The tool is

pushed gently into the stock with only the edge

contacting the material.

Figure 6-74 shows the

round nose tool making a cove cut.

Each of these tools is ground to a special

contour. Whenever the shape you are turn-

ing matches one of these contours, these tools

can be used to increase speed and uniformity.

Many turners will custom grind a special

shape they will be repeating into the profile

of a flat tool, such as a bull nose. You should

use extreme care when sharpening a tool

witha special contour in order not to destroy

theprofile.

Woods for Turning

Several woods can be used for turning in

the woodshop. Commonly used woods include

birch, mahogany, hard maple, oak, and walnut.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-73. Parting cuts are made before

cutting special shapes so that you will know

when the stock has been cut to the required

diameter.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-74. The round nose tool is used for

cove cuts and can also can be used for faceplate

turning.

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SAMPLE

172 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

If you are faceplate turning, you can glue

a piece of scrap to the good stock. This allows

screws to be placed into the scrap without damag-

ing the nal product. Many turners glue a piece of

kraft paper between the scrap and the good stock

for easier separation later. See Figure6-76.

Some spindle-turned material will be sepa-

rated after turning and attached to a at surface

for decorative purposes. When this technique is

utilized, two pieces of stock can be glued togeth-

er, separated with a piece of kraft paper. The two

pieces are easily separated after turning. Use care

to place the center points of both lathe centers on

this glue line to assure equal separation later.

Professional wood turners commonly use

wood with defects to enhance a design. However,

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-75. Different types of wood can be

glued together. Turning the glued piece on the

lathe produces unique designs.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-76. Gluing process. A—Glue a scrap piece of wood to the glued-up stock and then attach it

to the lathe faceplate. B—After the project has been turned, separate the scrap piece from the ﬁnished

product. C—Separating the good stock from the scrap. D—The ﬁnished bowl.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 173

Mount the spur center and the stock in the

headstock spindle. Insert the cup center in the

other end of the stock. Turn the stock by hand to

seat the cup center in the end of the stock, and

then lock the tailstock into position.

Adjust the tool rest so that it is parallel with

the center of the stock and about 1/8″ away from

it,

Figure6-79. Make sure that the tool rest is not

below the center of the stock. Turn the stock by

hand to see that it clears the tool rest. Set the

lathe at the slowest speed and turn on the motor.

a loose knot could separate while turning, caus-

ing a hazard. The defect is glued in place using

a cyanoacrylate adhesive specically designed for

lathe turning. This adhesive sets almost immedi-

ately, allowing for repairs to be made to the stock

while only briey shutting the lathe off. However,

the fumes from the adhesive can irritate the eyes,

nose, and throat, and it can be extremely hazard-

ous when it comes into contact with the skin.

Spindle Turning

Spindle turning is used to make products such

as balusters, rails, and lamp bases. For spindle

turning, the stock is mounted between the lathe

centers. Select a piece of stock and cut it about an

inch longer than the completed product. Fasten

the piece in a vise and draw diagonal lines across

the corners of both ends. Then mark the centers

with a punch. Cut saw kerfs about 1/8″ deep

along the diagonal lines at one end,

Figure 6-77.

If the thickness and width of the stock are greater

than 2″ square, plane or saw off the corners prior

to turning. This decreases the amount of time re-

quired for rough turning and reduces hazards.

Drive the spur (headstock) center into the kerfs

with a mallet as shown in

Figure6-78.

Insert a cup (tailstock) center into the tail-

stock spindle. Some cup centers, called dead

centers, are stationary. These types of centers

require the use of grease or wax as a lubricant.

Some tailstock centers have bearings that rotate

with the stock. These bearing centers require

little or no lubrication.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-77. The saw kerfs allow the lathe spur

to hold the wood securely when turning.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-78. Drive the spur into the saw kerfs

with a mallet.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-79. Always keep the tool rest as close

to the turning as possible. You will have to move

it as you keep removing material.

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SAMPLE

174 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

The speed of some lathes may need to be adjust-

ed after turning on the lathe.

Place a gouge on the tool rest, positioning one

of your hands on the blade and the other hand on

the handle. The hand on the blade should have

the thumb over the blade and forenger under

the blade,

Figure6-80. Turn the blade slightly to

make a shearing cut. Move the gouge carefully

along the tool rest using your forenger as a

guide. Make additional cuts with the gouge us-

ing the same method until the piece becomes

cylindrical. When the space between the stock

and the tool rest reaches 3/8″, stop the lathe and

readjust the tool rest. Check the progress of the

cylinder by holding the tool lightly on the top

of the moving stock. When the tool sits without

bouncing, the cylinder is nished (round).

Use a skew with a scraping cut to smooth the

cylinder,

Figure 6-81. A scraping cut is made by

turning the skew’s cutting edge at a right angle

to the piece. Move the skew along the tool rest

using a similar motion as when using the gouge

to achieve a smooth, uniform cylinder. Scraping

cuts are easier to make with the skew than shear-

ing cuts. Scraping cuts are recommended until

you have had enough experience using the lathe.

Shearing cuts are made with a skew by raising the

tool rest above center and turning the cutting edge

of the skew at an angle to the stock,

Figure6-82.

The cutting edge then cuts like aknife.

Use a parting tool and outside calipers to lay

out the necessary diameters along the cylinder.

Next, use other tools to form the desired shape

to complete the piece.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-80. The ﬁrst tool to use for spindle

turning is the gouge. Hold it as shown here.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-81. Smoothing with the skew.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-82. Making a shearing cut with the

skew.

Figure6-83 illustrates using the calipers and

the parting tool while the stock is rotating. This is

a common procedure used by many experienced

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-83. Check the diameter with outside

calipers at various times during the turning.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 175

turners. This procedure should not be attempted

by beginners. The lathe should be turned off to

make measurements when you are learning to

turn wood.

Cutting Tapers and

Shoulders

A taper is a gradual, uniform decrease in

diameter from one end of the stock to another.

Table legs are often tapered. The rst step in cut-

ting a taper is to lay out the length of the taper

according to your plans. Using the parting tool,

turn the stock to the required diameter on each

end of the taper. Next, use the gouge to turn the

stock down to within 1/8″ the entire length of

the taper. Once you have the stock rough cut,

use the skew to turn the stock down to the n-

ish size,

Figure 6-84. This can be done using a

shearing cut. A scraping tool can also be used

to make the same kind of cut. When making the

taper, always cut from the large end toward the

smaller end.

Shoulder cuts are straight cuts made into

the stock,

Figure 6-85. The rst cut is made

with the parting tool held straight and pushed

into the rotating stock. A nish cut is then made

with the toe of the skew to produce a smooth sur-

face. If the shoulder cut is more than 3/8″ deep

into the stock, make a second cut to provide

enough clearance to prevent overheating the tool.

Beads

Beads are rounded parts on turned wood.

Making accurate beads is very difcult and will

require much practice and skill. Practice this cut

on scrap stock before attempting it on your proj-

ect. The rst step is to turn the stock down to

the correct diameter. Once this has been done,

use a ruler to lay out the positions of the beads

on the stock,

Figure6-86. Place a skew high on

the work and use the heel to make the starting

cut. Now rotate the tool from the horizontal to

vertical position. As you make this move, pull

the tool slightly toward you so that the heel will

continue to make the cut. In order to get the bead

to the desired shape and size, repeat this cut sev-

eral times until you get to the required depth,

Figure6-87.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-84. The taper cut is usually done with

the skew.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-85. The shoulder cut can be made with

the skew or with the parting tool.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-86. Mark the locations of the cuts to be

made while the machine is running.

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SAMPLE

176 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Thenishing cut is made by placing the gouge

on edge and in the horizontal position and then

moving it into the cut,

Figure6-89. As you move

the gouge into the cut, you should roll the tool

and lower the handle. This action will form half

of the cove. Once you have cut one-half of the

cove, cut the other half using the same method.

Headstock Turning

Headstock turning is used to make products

such as bowls. When making a small bowl, select a

piece of turning stock that measures about 1″ thick

by 5″ square. In addition, select a smaller piece of

scrap stock to use as a separation piece. The scrap

stock provides a waste area for screwing the stock

to the faceplate. Cut both pieces to a circular shape.

Then attach the scrap to the stock with a piece of

kraft paper between the two pieces of wood. Glue

and clamp the pieces of stock and paper securely,

allowing them to dry overnight. The two pieces

can later be easily separated using a chisel.

Attach the faceplate to the scrap stock using

No. 12 wood screws as shown in Figure 6-90.

Remove the spur center from the headstock and

screw the faceplate on the headstock spindle. Set

the lathe to its slowest speed. Some lathes must

be rotating in order to change the speed. If this is

the case with your lathe, adjust the speed before

mounting the stock to the spindle. Adjust the

tool rest so that it is parallel to the center of your

stock and about 1/8″ away from it. Turn the stock

by hand to make sure that it clears the tool rest.

V-Grooves

Making V-grooves on the wood lathe is

somewhat similar to making beads. The main

difference is that V-grooves are made without

rotating the skew. The skew should be rocked

straight into the stock until the desired depth is

achieved,

Figure6-88.

Coves

Coves are concave cuts made into the wood.

A cove cut is very simple to make. Lay out the

width of the cove on the stock using a rule and

a pencil. Coves can be cut with either the round

nose chisel or a small gouge. Make a rough

cut by pushing the tool straight into the stock.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-87. The bead design is cut in several

steps.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-88. A V-groove is cut with the skew.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-89. Using a round nose chisel to make

a cove cut.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 177

when making external cuts. Continue with ad-

ditional cuts using the same method to obtain a

wall thickness of about 1/4″ and a bottom thick-

ness of about 3/8″.

Turning Small Pieces

Small pieces can be held on the lathe using a

drill press chuck mounted on the tapered shank

of the headstock. If you have several small

knobs that need to be made for your project,

this would be the perfect method to produce

the parts. The rst step is to drill a 3/8″ diam-

eter hole into a 1″ dowel rod. Glue a small piece

of 3/8″ dowel rod into the hole. Secure this 3/8″

dowel rod in the drill chuck. The desired shape

of the part can then be turned on the lathe,

Figure6-93. If you have a small faceplate project,

Rough turn the outside of the bowl with a

gouge. Then smooth it with a round nose tool.

See

Figure6-91.

Reset the tool rest so that it is parallel with

the face of the bowl,

Figure6-92. Position a round

nose tool on the tool rest and begin cutting at the

outside edge of the bowl. Move the tool carefully

along the tool rest toward the center. Remember

to scrape from the larger diameter to the smaller

diameter when making internal cuts, and from

the smaller diameter to the larger diameter

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-90. Attach the faceplate to the wood

with screws. Make sure the screws will not

interfere with the internal cutting of the wood.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-91. Rough cutting on the outside of the

bowl is done with a gouge.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-92. For cutting the inside of the bowl,

place the tool rest parallel with the bowl face.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-93. A drill press chuck can be used to

hold small pieces for turning.

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SAMPLE

178 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

Lathe Duplicator

Attachment

When several parts with the same design

are needed, a lathe duplicator attachment can be

used. This device can be attached to most lathes.

Most lathe duplicators have a guide that follows

either the original part or a template that is a sil-

houette (outline) of the original part. The tem-

plate is usually made from plastic or hardboard.

The rough stock is placed between the centers,

the lathe is turned on, and the guide is moved

along the template. An exact copy is then turned

between the centers.

you could also use the screw chuck. The screw

chuck is threaded onto the headstock. Drill

a small diameter hole in your workpiece and

then screw the workpiece onto the screw chuck,

Figure6-94. Use smaller lathe tools if they are

available,

Figure6-95.

Turning Duplicate

Parts

If your project requires two or more pieces

of the same size and shape, it is best to make a

template. The template can be used to lay out

the proper diameters,

Figure6-96. By using the

parting tool and calipers, you can cut down the

workpiece to a rough shape.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-95. Smaller lathe tools such as these

are useful for turning small pieces of wood

stock.

A B

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-94. The use of the screw chuck should be used when turning small projects.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-96. Duplicate templates should be

used when making several pieces that are the

same size.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.8 Wood Lathe 179

for sanding. Sanding belts have a cloth backing

and, when cut into strips, allow you to hold the

ends while sanding. This can reduce or elimi-

nate frictionburns.

Applying a Finish

When your nal turning has been carefully

sanded, some nishes can be applied while the

stock is still mounted on the lathe. French pol-

ishing is a simple technique that provides an

excellent nish. Place a piece of paper under the

turning to protect the lathe bed from the nish-

ing materials. Set the lathe to a speed of 600 rpm

and turn on the motor. Fold a clean cloth into a

small pad, apply a small amount of linseed oil

to the pad, and rub the surface of the product as

shown in

Figure6-98. Next, apply shellac with

the pad held lightly against the surface. When

the product is coated, increase the speed of the

lathe to about 1200  rpm while increasing the

pressure on the pad. Use a few drops of linseed

oil on the pad as a lubricant. When the nish

becomes shiny, turn off the lathe and remove

the product. Allow the nish to harden over-

night. It will probably be necessary to apply a

second coat after the rst coat has thoroughly

dried. Apply a coat of wax after both coats of

nish have dried.

Many turners use a wax nish. The wax n-

ish is simple, fast, and very effective for many

products. While the spindle or headstock is

rotating, apply the wax directly to the wood’s

Final Sanding

After the desired shape has been turned, cer-

tain nishing operations should be completed

before removing the stock from the lathe. The

rst of these operations is sanding,

Figure6-97.

Observe the following safety precautions.

• Your hand will be contacting the turning

material. Make certain not to allow any

clothing or rags to pull your ngers into

thestock.

• Use a light touch. Sanding and polishing

generate frictional heat that can burn your

ngers if you apply too much pressure.

• As with any sanding operation, care should

be taken not to inhale the dust or to allow

excessive dust to build up on the surface of

your skin. Use a NIOSH-approved breathing

mask and position a fan to blow the dust

away from you.

• Many lathes are equipped with reversing

switches. This capability allows for faster

sanding. Do not reverse the direction

of rotation while the lathe is turning.

This could damage the lathe or cause

personalinjury.

The grit size used for sanding depends on

two factors: the type of wood and the quality

of the nish achieved using the lathe tools.

Generally, start with 80–100 grit paper and

end using 180–220 grit paper. Do not use steel

wool as it can easily wrap around the stock. Old

sanding belts can be cut into strips and used

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-97. Sanding can be done while the

lathe is running.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-98. The materials for a French polish

are applied with a cloth.

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SAMPLE

180 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

with a clean cloth. Allow the product to dry

several weeks before use.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. In _____ turning, the workpiece is held

between centers on the lathe’s headstock

and tailstock.

A. spindle

B. tailstock

C. faceplate

D. screw chuck

2. True or False? Headstock turning is also

called faceplate turning.

3. True or False? All work turned on the lathe

should be started at a slow speed.

4. The _____ cuts rapidly but does not produce

a smooth cut or surface.

A. skew

B. parting

C. gouge

D. round nose

5. True or False? The skew is used to make

parting cuts.

6. True or False? Structural parts, such as

table legs, should be made from kiln-dried

wood.

7. True or False? Saw kerfs are cut into the

ends of wood stock that will be mounted

between centers.

8. True or False? When cutting a taper, always

cut from the large end toward the small

end.

9. Coves can be cut with a small gouge or a

_____ chisel.

A. round nose

B. gouge

C. skew

D. parting

10. When turning a product such as a bowl, the

stock and separation pieces are attached to

a ______.

A. spindle

B. faceplate

C. drill chuck

D. screw point

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-99. Follow the manufacturer’s

directions for using commercial ﬁnishes on

thelathe.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-100. Non-toxic ﬁnishes should be used if

your turning project will be used for serving food.

surface. Allow a slight buildup of wax. Press a

clean cloth on the wax while the spindle is turn-

ing. The friction melts the wax, pushing it into

the pores of the wood surface. Applying more or

less pressure with the rag can vary the shade of

the nish. Be careful not to allow the cloth to pull

your hand into the stock.

Figure 6-99 shows other types of nishes

that can be applied to wood turnings. Please

note that if your project will come in contact

with food, it is best to apply several coats of

liquid cooking oil or similar non-toxic nish,

Figure 6-100. Wipe the material on and buff

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SAMPLE

181

14. True or False? For final sanding on the lathe,

generally start with 80–100 grit paper and

end with 180–220 grit paper.

15. True or False? The type of finishing material

applied to turned bowl that will used for

serving food should be non-toxic.

11. True or False? Small parts can be turned

on the lathe by using a drill press chuck

attached to the headstock.

12. True or False? When several parts of the

same design are needed, a faceplate

attachment can be fastened to the lathe.

13. The French polish technique uses a

combination of linseed oil and _____.

A. shellac

B. lacquer

C. varnish

D. wax

Ch06_126-191.indd 181Ch06_126-191.indd 181 22-09-2022 12:24:1322-09-2022 12:24:13

SAMPLE

182 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

spindle is adjustable to allow for varying depths

of cut. Once the desired height is determined,

the spindle is locked into place.

The cutter and spindle are rotated by a motor-

driven belt. Cutter speeds range from 5000 to

10,000 rpm. Some machines have variable speeds.

They make it possible to set the best cutter speed for

the type of material being cut, the thickness of the

cut, and the size of the cutter. The cutter normally

turns in a counterclockwise direction, but many

machines are equipped with reversing switches.

Straight stock is usually held against the

fence. The shaper fence is divided into two parts:

the front fence and the rear fence. Both parts of

the fence are separately adjustable. Curved stock

is fed against a depth guide collar attached to the

spindle, and one or two fulcrum pins.

Shaper Cutters

Three-lip solid cutters are available in a vari-

ety of shapes, including straight, cove, ute, bead,

door lip, and many others,

Figure 6-101. Some

cutters may be purchased for either left-hand or

Section 6.9

Shaper

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Identify the main parts of the shaper and

their function.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using this machine.

• Demonstrate the process of shaping straight

edges on wood stock.

• Demonstrate the process of shaping curved

edges on wood stock.

Technical Terms

fulcrum pin shaper

Reading Prep

As you read this section, list the

shaper cutters available and make

a sketch next to each, showing the

proﬁle made by the cutter.

The shaper is used to cut decorative proles

into straight or irregular edges of wood stock. It

can also be used to cut simple wood joints such

as a rabbet or tongue-and-groove joint. The pro-

les are formed by various sizes and shapes of

cutters mounted onto the spindle of the machine.

The work is moved over the table and fed into the

cutters to form the desired shape. Note that many

of the operations done on the shaper can be done

somewhat more safely with a portable router. The

portable router is covered in Chapter5.

The size of a shaper is specied by the diam-

eter of the spindle that holds the cutters. Com-

mon spindle sizes are 1/2″, 3/4″, and 1″. Many

machines allow the use of different sizes of spin-

dles. The outside diameters of the cutter knives

vary a great deal, depending upon their use.

Many cutters have larger spindle holes (center

holes) as the outside diameter or overall thick-

ness of the cutter increases. The height of the

Flute

Glue joint

3-Bead 5-Bead Wedge

tongue

Wedge

groove

FluteDrawer

joint

Ogee Female

sash

Male

sash

Ogee & bead

table edge

Flute

Qr. Rd. Flute Bead Door lip

Flute Bead Panel

raising

Bead

Convex

edge

Flute Bead

Bead

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-101. These are some of the proﬁles that

can be formed by shaper cutters.

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SAMPLE

Section 6.9 Shaper 183

• Make sure the stock is at least 16″

long. Use a featherboard or other

device to help hold stock less than 4″

wide or 1″ thick.

• Select a cutter that is designed to

cut on the underside of the stock to

eliminate cutter exposure.

• Make all adjustments before the

power is turned on.

• Make sure the knives are correctly

seated and balanced and are fastened

securely to the arbor.

• Make sure both sides of the fence are

in line when cutting straight stock.

• Select a collar size that will conform

as nearly as possible to the smallest

curve in the form to be shaped. Use

the pin in the table when “riding the

collar.”

• Always use the guard and hold-down

devices.

• Have the instructor check the setup

before turning on the power.

• Always feed the stock against the

cutting edge. In other words, feed the

work into the cutters in the direction

opposite the cutter rotation.

• Cut with the grain whenever possible.

Advance the stock very slowly when

cutting against the grain.

• Hold the stock firmly against the fence

or collar.

• Always use a fulcrum pin to help start

stock against the depth collar. This

will help prevent kickback of the stock.

• Keep your hands 6″ away from the

cutter when starting the cut.

• Use stop blocks when making a cut

within the limits of the piece of stock;

that is when the cut will not be along

the entire length of the stock.

• Never back up. Stock must always be

fed against the rotation of the cutters.

Feeding with the rotation can throw

the stock from the shaper.

right-hand operation. Cutters are made of high-

speed steel with carbide-tipped cutting edges to

increase their durability.

When possible, cutters should be installed so

that they cut from the bottom of the stock. This

allows the stock to act as a partial shield. Spacing

collars may be used above or beneath the cutter to

hold the assembly in the proper position. If irregu-

lar shapes are to be cut, a depth guide collar must

be placed above or beneath the cutter. Thecollar

regulates the depth of cut and guides the stock as

it is fed across the shaper,

Figure6-102. When cut-

ting irregular shapes, one or two fulcrum pins

must be installed to aid in starting thecut.

When installing a cutter in a shaper, discon-

nect the power cord or turn off the disconnect

switch. Remove the top spindle nut. Select the

desired cutter and install it on the spindle. Spac-

ers are generally necessary either above or below

the cutter. These should be placed on the spindle

prior to replacing the spindle nut.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of the Wood Shaper

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating the shaper.

Make sure others will not be in the

machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow general

safety rules, as well as the ones listed here.

Spindle

Washer

3-lip

cutter bit

Spindle

collar

Spindle nut

Depth guide

collar

Shaper table

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-102. Installing a bit on a shaper spindle.

Note the depth guide collar.

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SAMPLE

184 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

guide collar into the cutter knives. Be sure the

knives rotate toward the stock. Continue to push

the stock forward with light pressure against

the depth guide collar. Complete the stroke by

keeping light pressure against the depth guide

collar while pushing the stock past the cutter.

Turn off the motor after the cutting stroke has

been completed.

Shaping Straight

Edges

Best results when using a shaper are obtained

after practicing on a piece of scrap stock. Select a

defect-free piece of stock that is at least 16″ long.

Install a suitable cutter on the spindle. Set the

fence in a position so that the cutter is correct-

ly aligned with the edge of the stock. Move the

fence parallel to the miter gauge slot on the table

and tighten it securely. Inspect the grain of the

stock to determine its direction. Turn the stock

so the cutter knives will cut toward the stock

and in the direction of the grain.

The process of shaping a straight edge with

a shaper is similar to that of jointing an edge

with a jointer. Place the stock on the shaper table

and turn on the motor. Hold the stock against

the table and the fence and push it over the cut-

ter. When about 2″ of the stock have passed the

cutter, turn off the motor and adjust the second

part of the fence to the formed edge,

Figure6-103.

Turn on the motor and continue the cutting

stroke. When about 8″ of the stock have passed

the cutter, move one of your hands to the other

side, then the other hand, and complete the cut-

ting stroke with both hands pressing against the

second part of the fence. This procedure ensures

that your hands will not pass directly over or in

front of the cutter,

Figure6-104.

Shaping Irregular

Edges

Select a piece of scrap stock and saw a curve

on one edge. Install a suitable cutter and a depth

guide collar on the spindle. Fasten a fulcrum pin

in the table. The fulcrum pin acts as a guide and

support when starting the cut. Turn the stock so

that the cutter knives will cut toward the stock

and in the direction of the grain. Position the

ring guard.

Place the stock on the shaper table and turn

on the motor. Hold the stock rmly against

the fulcrum pin and push it toward the depth

ear fence

(outfeed)

3-lip cutter

Stock

Front fence

(infeed)

Rotation

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-103. Offset of the shaper fence as an

entire edge is shaped (top view).

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-104. Keep your hands away from the

rotating blades of the shaper.

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SAMPLE

185

3. True or False? When using the shaper, make

sure the stock is at least 3” long.

4. True or False? When shaping a straight edge,

you should move your hands from the front

fence to the rear fence.

5. The _____ acts as a guide and support when

starting irregular cuts on the shaper.

A. fence

B. fulcrum pin

C. guard

D. None of the above.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. The size of the wood shaper is indicated

by the diameter of the _____ that holds the

cutter.

A. spindle

B. chuck

C. washer

D. screw

2. When possible, shaper cutters should be

installed so they cut from the _____ of the

stock.

A. right

B. bottom

C. left

D. top

Ch06_126-191.indd 185Ch06_126-191.indd 185 22-09-2022 12:24:1422-09-2022 12:24:14

SAMPLE

186 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines Copyright Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc.

S A F E T Y

Safe Use of Sanders

Keep yourself and the work area

safe. Always wear appropriate personal

protective equipment, inspect the

workpiece, and obtain your instructor’s

permission before operating power

sanders. Make sure others will not be in

the machine’s safety zone while you are

operating it. Be sure to follow general

safety rules, as well as the ones listed

here.

• The dust produced by power sanders

can be extremely hazardous if inhaled.

Proper dust collection devices should

be in place and operating. Wear a

NIOSH-approved respirator when

operating a power sander.

• Carefully inspect the condition of the

abrasive surface (belt, disc, drum, or

spindle) before turning on the power.

Surfaces that are frayed, torn, or

have holes should be replaced by the

instructor.

• On disc sanders, set the clearance

between the sanding disc and the

table so that it is as close as possible

(1/16″ or less).

• All adjustments must be made while

the sander is turned off and stopped.

• Check to be sure that all machine

guards are in place and all

adjustments locked before turning on

the power.

• Keep your fingers at least 2″ from the

moving abrasive belt, disc, or spindle.

• Hold the work securely in both hands.

However, do not try to hold small

pieces with your hands. There is

too much danger they will shift and

pull your fingers against the moving

abrasive. Hold small pieces with

a hand clamp or in a special jig or

fixture.

Section 6.10

Sanders: Belt, Disc,

Spindle, and Drum

Objectives

After studying this section, you will be able to:

• Identify the four main types of power

sanders and describe the functions of the

major parts.

• List the basic safety rules to follow when

using power sanders.

• Demonstrate the proper and safe use of all

four power sanders: belt, disc, spindle, and

drum.

Technical Terms

drum sander

oscillating spindle

sander

snipe

Reading Prep

Before reading the section, skim the

photos and their captions. As you

read, determine how these concepts

contribute to the ideas presented in

the text.

One of the nal steps before assembling a

product is the sanding of all the pieces. A variety

of stationary power sanders are available. The

ones most commonly found in woodshops are

belt, disc, spindle, and drum sanders. These ma-

chines very rapidly remove scratches and mill

marks. However, it is very easy to remove more

surface material than necessary. This could re-

sult in an uneven surface or poorly tting joints.

The nish sanding in most cases should be done

with portable sanders, which are covered in

Chapter 5.

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Section 6.10 Sanders: Belt, Disc, Spindle, and Drum 187

the stock when the sander is in the vertical posi-

tion, and an end stop is used when the sander is

in the horizontal position.

When using the belt sander, carefully lower

the piece of stock onto the moving belt, making

sure the end of the piece is held tightly against

the stop. Move the stock from side-to-side until

it is smooth. Remove the stock from the belt and

turn off the motor.

The sanding belts are usually made from

cloth, and the grit sizes may range from No. 120

to No. 24 (coarse). If the belt is worn, it will have

to be replaced. Follow these steps:

• On disc sanders, keep the tabletop

level with the center of the disc.

• Check the abrasive disc and make

certain that it is fastened securely.

• Use only enough pressure to keep

the abrasive material cutting the

stock. Excessive pressure can lead to

overheating and damage to the motor.

Belt Sander

Belt sanders utilize a continuous belt covered

with abrasive grit to smooth stock. Large sand-

ers with very wide belts are generally used in

a production setting. The machines commonly

referred to as stationary belt sanders are used

in woodshops, as are portable belt sanders (see

Chapter 5).

Wide Belt Sander

Wide belt sanders are used to smooth mill

marks and other imperfections from the faces of

planed boards and panels. The size of a wide belt

sander is indicated by the width of the abrasive

belt. Common widths are 25″, 37″, and 50″.

A wide-belt sanding machine is designed to

smooth stock efciently and quickly. This ma-

chine is equipped with an adjustable sanding

table that moves the stock on a belt under the ro-

tating sanding belt.

Stationary Belt Sander

The stationary belt sander is useful in the

woodshop for smoothing the faces and edges

of stock,

Figure6-105. Its size is indicated by the

width of the sander belt. A 6″ belt sander is a

common size. Combination belt and disc sand-

ers are available,

Figure6-106.

The length of the belt varies with the type

of sander, so make sure you use a belt that has

the correct length as well as the correct width.

The belt revolves on two cylinders, one adjust-

able and one stationary. The adjustable cylinder

is used to adjust the belt tracking (side-to-side

motion) and tension.

Belt sanders can be used in both the vertical

and horizontal position. A table is used to hold

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-105. Sanding the face of stock on a

belt sander. Keep moving the stock during the

sanding process.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-106. A combination belt and disc

sander may be used in smaller woodshops or

home workshops.

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188 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

edges, one can use a miter gauge. The miter

gauge is placed in the table slot and can also

be adjusted to various angles,

Figure 6-108. The

table on the machine can also be adjusted to vari-

ous angles depending on the project.

The sanding disc comes in various grades

ranging from a No. 100 (smooth) to a No. 60

(course). Once the sanding disc wears down it

must be replaced. Depending on the size of your

disc sander, you can replace the disc with a new

one. Some replacement sanding discs come with

an adhesive already on the disc. Remove the

old disc from the machine and clean off any old

adhesive that might be on the metal disc. Peel off

1. Disconnect the machine from its power

source.

2. Remove the end and side guards on the

machine.

3. Release the tension spring.

4. Remove the old belt.

5. Select a new belt with the proper grit and

correct size.

6. Look inside the belt and you will see a

directional arrow. This will indicate in

which direction the belt should be placed

on the machine.

7. Place the new belt onto the machine,

making sure it fits onto both rollers.

8. Adjust the tension on the belt. Roll the

belt by hand to make sure it is tracking

cor rectly.

9. Replace all of the guards and turn on the

machine to see if the tracking is correct.

If it is not, turn off the machine and make

the necessary adjustments. Turn on the

machine again and make sure the belt

is tracking. Repeat this process until the

tracking is correct.

Disc Sander

The disc sander is useful when shaping

the edges and ends of stock. Disc sander size

is indicated by the size of the disc. A 12″disc

sander is a common size. The disc sander is

usually equipped with an adjustable table. It can

be used with a miter gauge to guide the stock

when smoothing bevels and angles.

When using a disc sander to smooth stock,

always make sure that the stock comes into

contact with the sander while the disc is mov-

ing downward. See

Figure 6-107. If you place the

stock along the other side of the disc, the force

of the disc may pick up the piece of stock from

the table.

Allow the table of the sander to support the

stock; do not support the stock with your hands.

Turn on the motor and move the piece carefully

into the disc. Use only enough pressure against

the disc to keep it cutting. Move the piece a small

amount sideways to reduce the heat caused by

friction. When the end of the piece is smooth,

remove it from the table and turn off the motor.

Pieces of irregular shapes are usually guided

freehand. For more accurate work on straight

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-107. The arrow indicates the disc’s

direction of rotation. Sanding on the downward

side of the disc sander will allow the wood to

remain securely on the table.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-108. The miter gauge used on the disc

sander helps to keep your stock square when

sanding.

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Section 6.10 Sanders: Belt, Disc, Spindle, and Drum 189

t over the top. Depending on which sand-

ing drum is used, you will have to replace the

throat plate to t the appropriate drum size,

Figure 6-111. Most of these machines are also

equipped with a standard dust exhaust port. A

vacuum hose can be attached to this port to re-

move sanding dust.

When using this machine, you will note that

the sanding drum rotates counterclockwise. You

should feed the wood stock against the drum

working from right to left. If you feed in the op-

posite direction, the motion of the sanding drum

will tend to throw the wood piece away from

the drum. Do not force the wood stock. Keep the

stock moving all of the time. Leaving the wood

stock in one spot against the sanding drum will

result in uneven edges.

Drum Sander

The drum sander has a horizontal drum. It is

somewhat similar to the wide belt sander. How-

ever, instead of a wide sanding belt, it has a large

sanding drum that is used to sand at surfaces,

Figure6-112. The sanding drums have a 2″ wide

abrasive material wound around them and se-

cured with spring clips at the ends.

The workpiece is placed on a feed table.The

feed table has an abrasive belt that holds thewood

stock in place. The feed table will move the ma-

terial between 0 and 15 surface feet per minute

(sfpm). The nice feature about these machines

the protective paper from the new disc and care-

fully place it onto the metal plate,

Figure6-109.

Oscillating Spindle

Sander

Oscillating spindle sanders have a vertical

drum that rotates and also moves up and down,

Figure6-110. This up-and-down motion is why

the machine is called an oscillating sander. The

vertical sanding drum projects through a hori-

zontal table. The sanding drums usually range

in size from 1/2″ to 3″ in diameter. They are

made of rubber, and abrasive sanding sleeves

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-109. Replace worn sanding discs on the

disc sander whenever possible.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-110. The vertical drum of this sander

moves in two directions. It rotates and also

moves up and down.

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-111. Various sizes of drums will ﬁt on

the spindle sander. Choose the appropriate

throat plate for the drum size.

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190 Chapter 6 Power Woodworking Machines

• Use the guard on the circular saw for almost

all operations.

• When crosscutting on the circular saw you

should use the miter gauge.

• Push sticks are used to safely rip a board

less than 6″ wide.

• Relief cuts are made on the wood stock

when making small, sharp, curved cuts.

• The scroll saw or jigsaw is designed to

makesmall arcs of curved cuts on the

woodstock.

• The best use of the radial arm saw is for

making crosscutting and dado cuts.

• The drill press is mainly used for drilling,

sanding, routing, shaping, and mortising

wood material.

• The jointer is mainly used to remove the

warp and surface imperfections from the

edges and faces of the wood material.

• The planer or surfacer is used to machine

stock to exact thickness instead of using a

hand plane.

• Wood lathe can be used to produce

cylindrical or circular products like table

legs, bats, bowls, and lamp bases.

• Power sanders can rapidly remove scratches

and mill marks from wood material.

Know and Understand

Answer the following questions based on the

information provided in this section.

1. A type of stationary sanding machine

commonly used in woodshops is _____.

A. belt

B. disc

C. spindle

D. All of the above.

2. True or False? Sanding machines are best

used for removing scratches and mill marks

from wood stock.

3. True or False? You should wear a NIOSH-

approved respirator when operating a

power sander.

4. Keep your fingers at a distance of at least

_____ away from the moving belt, disc, or

spindle when sanding.

A. 1″

B. 6″

C. 2″

D. 12″

Goodheart-Willcox Publisher

Figure6-112. The large drum sander works well

on tabletops, cabinet sides, and other large, ﬂat

surfaces.

is that they will remove cupping from a board.

Also, unlike the surfacer/planer, drum sanders

do not cause snipe at the end of the boards. Snipe

is a concave cut that results when the surfacer

digs out a groove as the wood enters or leaves

the machine.

A pneumatic drum sander is somewhat sim-

ilar to a spindle sander. An abrasive cloth tube is

slipped over the rubber sanding drum. The rub-

ber drum is then inated with air. The amount of

air pressure can vary, and this will help cushion

the wood stock when sanding. These machines

are used primarily to sand curved pieces.

Career Readiness

Following safe woodworking practices

has an impact on how you function

physically and mentally. What unsafe

behaviors could have an effect on

how well you do your job? How do

you think employers should deal with

behaviors that affect the personal

safety of their employees?

Chapter Summary

• The table saw is often referred to as a

circular saw.

• The movable fence of the circular saw is

used to make accurate ripping of the wood.

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191

Activities

1. Following safety rules is important. Design

a safety slide show that can be used with

any single piece of power equipment

discussed in this chapter.

2. Draw sketches that show the shape of

crosscut, rip, and combination table

saw blades. You may need to reference

manufacturer catalogs.

3. Visit a cabinet shop or other woodworking

industry. Find out about the types of power

saws they use. Report your findings to

theclass.

4. Look at the planer/surfacer in your wood

laboratory. Who is the manufacturer?

Where is the power switch? Does the

cutterhead have a brake? Is it manual or

electric? Is the dust collector attached to the

planer? Where is the adjustment for height

of the table? Is ear protection available for

the operator?

5. Select three different lathe cutting tools.

Make a sketch of each. Briefly describe how

and why each is used.

5. True or False? Wide belt sanders utilize belts

that are 6″–8″ wide.

6. True or False? The adjustable cylinder on

a belt sander is used to adjust the belt

tracking and tension.

7. The drum of the _____ spindle sander moves

up and down.

A. disc

B. belt

C. oscillating

D. sandpaper

8. True or False? The drum sander has a

vertical drum.

9. True or False? Air is used in the pneumatic

drum sander to keep the abrasive cloth on

the rubber drum and to help cushion the

workpiece.

Critical Thinking

1. After learning and operating all of the

various power woodworking machines in

this chapter, which one is the most useful

in the construction of different projects

andwhy?

2. If you were starting your own

woodworking shop at your home, list the

four power machines you would purchase

and why.

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